Visiting Kalaupapa had been on my bucket list for years since moving to Hawaii (yeah, not many people ask for a trip to a former leper colony for their birthday - I'm that girl). Back in 1995, I happened to be at the beatification ceremony in Belgium for Pater Damien. I've been in a 20+ year orbit of him since. I worked downtown next to the church in which he was ordained. Finally, I was able to visit Kalaupapa myself.
My book club recently read Molokai by Alan Brennart, a novel chronicling the separation of a girl from her family on Oahu and her long isolation on the peninsula throughout much of the 20th century. Next thing we know, we've chartered a flight and booked a tour! Our tour was $60 and included our permit.
As I mentioned in my review of the national historic park itself, you really have to do some work BEFORE you come. You can't expect to show up and be told the entire story of what happened here in a few hours and understand it. Nor will you really feel the mana of this place. Take the time to do some research and reading ahead of time and you will have a much richer experience.
That said, Richard and Brian and the sisters of St. Francis did an excellent job illuminating some of the history of the peninsula and the significance of some of the buildings left. We did not get to meet Gloria, the owner of the tour company and Fuesaina's bar since her daughter had just come in that morning for a visit. Richard has been living here for two decades and has done seemingly everything - from minister at one of the churches to physical restoration of the buildings. Brian has only been here for two years, and his specialty is natural history and he works with restoring native plant species; it was nice to have that perspective, too, which we wouldn't have otherwise had with a smaller group. They ping-pong-ed us with insight into ancient times, early days of the isolation of Hansen's disease patients, more recent history, and current life on the peninsula.
Our group (our book club 11, plus another six) was so large that Brian had to be recruited to drive a second vehicle, but Richard delivered information at the stops. Since his own life is so woven into that of the community, it never felt scripted, as guided tours so often do. They picked us up at the airport. We began at the pier, where an incoming patient would have arrived. We saw the houses where volunteers can stay now, but in the past, residents and visitors would have spent time with each other in those buildings, continually separated by fencing or numerous other physical barriers. We saw inside the Social Hall, Baldwin Home, St Philomena's, Siloama, St. Elizabeth's, Kanaana Hou, and the beautiful view of the cliffs at Makawao.
This is still a community of patient residents, though their numbers are dwindling. We didn't get a chance to meet any of them, though we did see some out and about, and Richard and Brian gave us a glimpse into some of their personalities. As it is still a community, the tour must be respectful of those residents, which is why permits are required, you are not allowed in as an outsider unless on a tour, work group, or as an invited guest of a resident. Keep in mind when booking a tour that the company is owned by a patient in her 80s (any business operating in Kalaupapa must be owned by a resident) and it's any guess what may happen to the tours or the park once the last of these residents pass on. You also must be sponsored at all times (even park service employees are subject to this their first six months), so there is no wandering freely about the community. The tour gave us a good amount of time at each stop to see, read, and ask questions.
An easily-recommended experience, but also not for everyone. read more