"...Congrats. You know how to cosplay, but shave your legs...?"
I have a lifelong fascination with Japanese pop culture - partly my Hong Konger upbringing (massive resemblance to Tokyo) and partly because I am a massive nerd. Between scale models, games, posters and videos there's also appreciation of costume play (cosplay) - I can appreciate someone putting in the extra work to look like Makima from Chainsaw Man or Snake from Metal Gear Solid (my wife will say that I have a passing resemblance to slim Taro Sakamoto from Sakamoto Days). When it came to being successful with Cosplay, details are important and it's a sign of love and respect for the subject matter to put in that extra effort. Why make that analogy? Well, here is Kohoku-Ku, a ramen shop in Hells Kitchen that tries so hard to be a legit ramen shop (complete with vintage signs, maps novels and manga covers) but fails to get the basics right.
Kohoku-Ku 港北区 refers to the Port North ward of Yokohama. It's a bedroom community and home to the Shin Yokohama Ramen Museum. It's also the birthplace of the Yokohama Iekei 家系 "house style" of of ramen, a hybrid between rich porky broth of western Japan and the light shoyu chicken broth of Tokyo, made in family owned ramen shops with names ending in 家 (-ie), or house. Our establishment (a mini-chain of 2 with another location on the north side of Chicago) reference heritage from Yokohama. So, either they can make a good bowl of Iekei (like Michida Shoten on West 46th), or are they like the multiple stalls of the Shin-Yokohama ramen museum food court?
The thing I do at ramen shops is try figuring out which "host" style that it claims heritage on. What kinda soup, noodles, tare (finish) and accompaniments? Ichiran and Ippudo are Fukkoka Tonkatsu, Menkoi Sato is Sapporo, Sentouka is Asahikawa, and Nishida Shoten is Kumamoto. Minca lean on Tokyo chicken shoyu but can whip up Iekei on demand, and their Billyburg store can do even more. Kin Kamen on Midtown West serves a tasty bowl despite Thai ownership, close to Hataka style. Tabata next to PABT serves up a tasty coconut ramen adjacent to Burmese Ohno Khao Swe, run by a Burmese chef who can also do a mean Kumamoto complete with Ma-yu (garlic oil).
So what's Kohoku-Ku's "host" style? Their namesake ramen is a chicken-bonito broth (so more Tokyo) with a shio tare (huh?), moderately spicy (?) with soft-shell crab, tempura, enoki, bok-choy, yuzu, ajitama egg with thin wavy noodles. Their chicken shoyu ramen soup contains truffle oil on thin wavy noodles, and their Tonkotsu (creamy pork bone) is also thin wavy noodles. My first question would be...truffle oil (something that most Japanese will not be okay with) The next is on the soup and whether it's good. Well, I had the Kokuku-Ku (their flagship noodles) and the first words that pop into my head was...Nong-shim, as in, the soup tastes like flavoring from Korean instant noodles, complete with chile flakes. It was not quite the thing I was looking for...and the experience went downhill from there. The gyozas were not Hanetsuki "wing" style like at South Tokyo joints, and the Japanese curry was a bit more watery than expected. Eeeh, the decor throws you back to the Showa era complete with references to various regions, but it's like a lady who dress up like the murder-mommy assassin Yor Forger from the manga Spy Family, complete with the Thorn Princess costume...but fails to shave her legs and completely kill the vibe. When me and the missus look at the food on the table we somehow can't help feel disappointed by the place. i dunno, stick to Nishida Shoten or Menkoi Sato? read more