tl;dr forgo the forgettable diner fare and expensive knickknacks at this restaurant/bar/general store mashup, but don't pass on the deliciously hype-worthy Apple Butter Cinnamon Donuts
Located just off Route 66, and right along the way to Shenandoah National Park, the Apple House is among the most popular of eateries for weary tourists. The massive, multi-roomed space begins with a general store immediately upon entering. The shelves are stocked with gimmicky trinkets and foodstuffs, including house-branded pantry provisions and a dedicated hot sauce display. Toward the back-right sits a saloon/bar, quiet for weekday lunch, but worth a look for the slightly overpriced mix-and-match packs of local beers and craft cider. Finally, the fast-casual restaurant sits to the far left. The line to order loops through beverage refrigerators and additional product shelves. A handful of laminated tables are placed in the sizable kitchen/ordering area, with many more stuffed in the claustrophobic, dedicated dining space up front. The cream walls are decked with sentimental photographs and mismatched-yet-homey finishes. Contemporary country music mixes with the sizzle of the grill from the kitchen, and the aromas of cinnamon and fried dough fill the air.
My partner and I stopped by on a weekday lunch, and we were able to order almost immediately. Notably, the cashier during our visit was brusque and faux-friendly, coldly directing our attention to the small number at the top of our receipt. Almost immediately after we ordered and grabbed one of the many vacant tables, a slew of hungry patrons arrived to form a queue.
We opted for a Jumbo Apple House Pork BBQ sandwich and a Wildcat (pastrami and Swiss on rye). For side dishes, we tried Baked Beans, Potato Salad, and Fried Apples. Each entree was served on a paper plate, with smaller cardboard dishes for the sides. The pulled pork was slightly tough and dry, served on a toasted potato roll. Further, despite being described as "jumbo," the slim portion size left me peckish. At major risk of being a complete dud, the sandwich, fortunately, was enhanced immensely by Apple House's tangy and slightly spicy house BBQ sauce (which surprisingly does not sit on every table). Meanwhile, the pastrami sandwich had a few slices of meat and melty cheese served on 2 grilled slices of marbled rye. Spicy brown mustard was already in place, completing a satisfying, albeit wholly standard, sandwich. Finally, the sides ran between standard and forgettable. The baked beans had multiple varieties (including chickpeas) swimming in a sweet sauce, the chunky potato salad was heavy on the dill and light on the mayo, and the apple chunks were mushy and served in overwhelmingly sugary cinnamon syrup. With how lackluster the entrees were, I was hesitant to shell out even a penny more for the regionally renowned Apple Butter Cinnamon Donuts -- but I'm sure glad that I did. We were handed our 2 hot donuts in a nondescript paper bag. The cakey texture was moist and light, effortlessly crumbling apart. Each bite flavor packed a buttery and cinnamony punch; my only critique was that I wish more apple flavor came through.
Overall, I was disappointed by the Apple House's unfriendly service, mostly mediocre food, surprisingly small portions, and noticeably expensive prices (the total for our meal was nearly $35). Further, "premium" sides like onion rings cost nearly $5 additional, a price that could more than cover them a la carte at a similar restaurant. Finally, the remainder of the store screamed "tourist trap" more than "quaint gift shop." Despite this, the Apple House's claim to fame -- the donuts -- live up to the hype. These alone are reason enough to make a dedicated stop at this unorthodox shop. read more