I love and adore dive eateries if the food kicks azz. Grandma's Tamales is an exemplary dive....nothing fancy, down to earth, no nonsense, rock bottom price, good bang for the bucks.
Grandma's ain't going to win a prize in Architectural Digest, but I feel as though I'm in a more traditional street market in México. Only draw back...why does Grandma's on East California Avenue close so dang early?
Probably because Grandma's gettin' on and tuckers out easily.
But Grandma is smart as a whip since the whole place on East California Avenue is like an outdoor patio from years ago before anyone even thought or heard of the Pandemic.
Walk up to the counter. Look up at the menu board and order. Food comes out pretty fast especially for slow precooked
foods like stewed Guisados, Frijoles, Arroz. All they have to do is scoop it out.
1) Chile Verde Plate:
The Salsa de Chile Verde seems meaty, chicken broth based along with thickening purée of acidic, citrusy sour Tomatillo, that originally looks like a green tomato surrounded by a thin papery leaf, piquant Jalapeño, onion, garlic, maybe some black pepper & cilantro.
Slow braised in the Chile Verde, the shredded pork has almost the same consistency as North Carolinian Pulled Pork BBQ. This shredding allows the pork to absorb all the rich, satisfying Chile Verde flavours.
1a) The Frijoles de Pinto is earthy tasting, dark reddish brown possibly due to addition of a bit of tomato sauce and thickened from cooking in its own juices.
Scattering of Totopos/fried Tortilla chips to scoop up some of the smooth, pasty Frijoles.
1b) Arroz is tinged with tomato sauce, friable, dry. Standard, nothing out of the ordinary.
1c) Tortillas Hechas por Mano: At the East California Avenue, two ladies are out in front. One forms a hand full of the Masa/corn dough into a ball, and places it in a wooden press to form a flat round Tortilla. The second lady puts the corn Tortilla on the grill to toast it.
These Tortillas are very thin & light colored so it's either made from very white corn or the corn is mixed with wheat flour for a stretchier texture which is my guess.
$10.29....How did Grandma figure that price? Maybe she's into kicking back & smoking some major ganja.
2) Chile Relleno: Classic treatment using "sweet" Passilla chile stuffed with mildly stretchy, white cheese. It is dipped in egg beatened w/ flour that when fried creates an eggy, soft, puffy coating.
The Pasilla chile is still a bit tough so frying a little longer would have softened it more. Salsa de Chile Colorado has a mild chile heat as well as tomatoey Umami countered by a touch of bitterness from the Pasilla. The bland eggy coating absorbs this flavourful sauce.
Darn good, and it's accompanied by Frijoles de Pinto & Arroz.
3) Tamales:
a) Tamal de Puerco con Salsa de Chile Colorado: Fragrant corn Masa, that may be enhanced with Umami filled chicken stock, is firm yet slightly cushy, smooth surfaced. Chew & it becomes creamy with a underlying richness from possibly lard fattiness.
The thickened Salsa de Chile Colorado has long lasting piquancy & red chile mini pieces. Garlicky, "smokey" from maybe oregano, thyme, Epazote. Tomato based gastrique. Carnitas-like, chunks of meaty, moist, pork loin.
This Tamal de Puerco is not for "hot", piquant chile wussies.
b) Tamal de Pollo con Salsa Verde: Same tasty Salsa Verde as the Puerco de Salsa Verde which infuses into the chopped, shredded, pleasantly mushy, white meat chicken. Not particularly piquant.
c. Tamal de Queso y Jalapeño: Standard, possibly white Oaxaca, Asadero-style cheese & slices of green Jalapeño chiles.
Excellent, almost home style Tamales. I imagine there would be a line during the winter holidays. Cool place to eat Mexican food that doesn't seem to be "gringoized"
I prefer eating at the E. California Avenue branch sInce it feels as though I've been teleported to México. 4- stars read more