We had one of the best meals of our lives at Harbor House last night. I don't say this lightly, as we have eaten at many fine restaurants around the world.
Harbor House is a destination, like a French Michelin starred restaurant (HH currently holds two stars) or a fine Japanese Ryokan with an inn and outstanding food. It's in a remote location, in a small town and with a gorgeous ocean view. The food concept is daily foraging/harvesting from local sources, including the kelp beds. Because of the closeness to the sea, there is a Japanese influence in the food and utensils and the wabi sabi (ephemera) concepts in the tasting menu of small courses.
Tastes and smells from this menu are triggers of memory of woods and farms by the sea. You will be connected a different place and time in your mind, based on your own experiences. HH answers the question "what is food?" with sustenance, flavor, visual beauty, textures and aromas to transport you to a higher plane. Not everyone will understand what I am saying (see the 1 star reviews), it's something you need to enlighten to.
The dinner changes with the season and even with the day based on what is available and what chef Mathew Kammerer decides to make. There's little documentation of past menus, so I decided to put this into my review so you can see the loving care that goes into the preparation and service -- I hope others will follow and we can build a nice record of the amazing dishes chef has created on Yelp. This review is for September 29, 2022:
*Albacore, zucchini, tomato - the initial course clears the palate and sets up what is to come. Light and refreshing with a brightness that hints of what's to come...the intersection of sea, forest and farm.
*Sea urchin, dulse, chopped chawanmushi - Outstanding fresh sea urchin, the best outside of the uni we had at Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo (sadly now closed to tourists)
*Abalone poached in sake, sauce of abalone offal - Might be the signature dish of this area, it is renowned for the abalone harvested literally out the back door.
*Maitake mushroom fried and infused, lace lichen, sesame - like a delicate tempura, with a subtle flavor from broth and paired with the subtle lichen, with a taste of the woods.
*Sourdough bread and cultured butter, sea lettuce
*New potatoes, cucumber and pine oil - A single new potato, with delicate sauce. Pine oil is very subtle and a nice pointer to the forest.
*Black cod smoked over bay laurel, sprouted rye - Amazing smoked dish with innovative presentation using artisanal hand made smoking box. The cod was first rate, this was the highlight of the menu and is going to inspire using bay laurel for smoking at our Ranch.
*Knight's Valley wagyu, taproots, tiny corn - a small taste that reminded me of shabu shabu. The wagyu is raw, then "cooked" with hot broth poured in the bowl right before consuming.
*Devil's Gulch squab, farm thinnings, unripe blackberries - Gamey with a foil of green acidity from the berries.
*Yogurt, pickling melon, toasted rice - Texture and bright acidity are provided by the surprising pickling melon.
*Kombu ice cream, spent coffee grounds, lavender - The ice cream was spectacular with tiny unidentified red flowers the size of a pin head to add a touch of "spice". Served in the cutest little "coupe" on a bed of honeycomb.
*Tea - infusion of douglas fir, grilled honey sweet herbs - This was quite a pleasant surprise. Note the photo of the grilled honey...the sweet herbs were used as a honey dipper to infuse the tea cup with the honey. Stunningly beautiful.
*Muscat grapes, Umeboshi caramel - every item on this plate was excellent, the grapes were at the peak of ripeness and sweet, the cookie (my wife had a gluten free version) had an unexpected nutty complement to the sweet creme filling.
I had the non-alcohol pairing flight along with dinner. Highly recommended and innovative (photo attached) beverages. Real care went into the selection of glassware and ingredients. It might even be better than the alcohol pairing.
If you can, try to book the inn for the night, along with dinner. The road is dark, windy and in weather could be tricky to navigate back to Mendocino or Point Arena after dinner. It was nice to retire to our room to relax a bit and do the next day's crossword puzzle. This is our second visit and we intend to return annually. read more