Ask the Yelp Whisperer - QOTD
September 22, 2015
Dear B, I'm heading to Paso Robles in a few weeks, eager for more than good wine. I don't need new tastes; I need a new narrative - a song told in vine about people of integrity, vision, and hard work who care. Quality and value of the wine are high priority, but I'm not asking for perfection. I'm open to ambivalence, eager for creative friction, searching for new talent, and open for learning lessons in patience. Got all that? My taste buds are in your hands!
Pekka H.
Los Olivos, CA
Hi Pekka. The Chimney Rock - Adelaida Road area is prime Westside wine tasting territory, with lovely, lingering-in-memory wines, captivating golden and green landscapes, and unique human stories playing out in all their compelling complexity. Case in point: Kukkula. Pencil it in bold print for your upcoming visit. I think you will find it to be extremely worth your while.
The impressions here are based on a single weekend visit, so don't assume that this experience will be shared by others. This is Yelp, not Wine Spectator, but for me 5-star wineries are about an elusive harmony of three: place, people, and product. Place matters, and here that's evident: stone, vine, tree, and sun, thick-cut glass and polished metal, barrel room, bar seating, landscaped paths leading from gravel and dirt into an elegant and intimate space where the wines are to be poured. The hills are covered in pruned vine, with walnut and olive trees and above them all, open sky. Elemental, unadorned, inviting - but not exactly cozy. This is the sort of place where you can't hide from the elements - you are meant, I think to be found, to be confronted with the terroir and to get the sense from the start of what went into the wines that you'll be tasting.
The people part is invariably the most unpredictable: will the winemaker be pouring that day, and will he be happy to do so? Will the energy of the room be casual, or comatose? Will there be laughter, or tears (of joy, of despair, from allergies, or otherwise ...)? Will the pourers who serve you have worked there for years, or for weeks? Will they want to give you the standard storyline, or will they riff off of your opening comments? Jazz or classic rock? Don't worry; do the research ahead time. Don't be surprised by the Finnish family heritage, the exceptional quality of the vineyards and facilities, the lack of a gift shop, the absence of a multigenerational winemaking pedigree. Embrace the slight edginess about the place, confidence masked by the hint of uncertainty, blended in some fashion with fatherhood issues that, if not Freudian, are clearly complicated; one does not reliably make money by pursuing a post-capitalist dream of sustainable artisan expression. And the prodigal son makes for one hell of a great narrative. Don't expect an Oprah moment here, but listen for the love that beats in the hearts and flows down the hillside from the vines. I heard it, and maybe so will you.
Product means the limited production of small-batch artisan wines: a white Rhone blend, followed by rosé, then a variable sequence of reds: dense, brooding, 15%+ wines that mix Finnish words with Paso Robles grown grapes into a mysterious mélange of youthful abstract expressionist exuberance crossed with father-knows-best prudence; it's Robert Parker meets Charlie Parker, Dizzy shaking hands with Dvořák, Streisand sings a Martha Scanlon tune ("Seeds of the Pine," from The West was Burning album, springs to mind). Maybe it's the epic drought of the past few years that amped up the souful Syrah sound; maybe the dry heat makes the Grenache more spiced fruit compote than fresh cherry blossom. Maybe the ancient walnut trees are confused by all the new plantings of olive and lavender. But the Counoise, the Mourvèdre, and the Cabernet really shine, and as more estate-grown grape enter the lineup in place of purchased lots, the better the products on offer will reflect the people involved, and the better that the place in which the grapes were raised to peak maturity will come to the fore.
As I said, this is a personal impression sort of thing, probably more wrong here than right, but I genuinely like the whole package on display here - place, people, and product. Not that I'd object if the place were renamed "Walnut Hill Winery" using varietal or locational/vineyard names for the wines instead of the Finnish language ones. Terroir means making one's mark on a place, but also letting that place make a mark on the self as well. I'd love on a subsequent visit to Kukkula to get a hint of walnut, of chaparral, of forest floor, and of sunshine, to think not of the Old World, but of the New. That's what Paso means to me, Pekka, and that's why I love visiting places just like this. So will you, I hope. Happy tasting! Maybe they'll be pouring a new release of Noir that day. read more