OK, so chances are that, like me, you are a fan of Anthony Bourdain and saw him sing rave reviews of this place on No Reservations.
Prior to hearing about this place, I actually heard of it from Chez Pim (if you follow food on the internet, you know who I am referring to from her blog - http://chezpim.com ).
Tried to eat here on a Fri night, but they were sold out (they take reservations at the hotel). Breakfast is for hotel guests only, but on weekends they do not take reservations for lunch or dinner.
So we show up again on a Sunday night around 8:30pm. All tables in this 30 or so seater bistro are full and there is a small line. Luckily for us, the other party was of 4 and the couple before us were inquiring about the "menu" (a term used for set menu in France), so the waitress who was busy and in typical Parisian fashion short on patience, gave us the table with less than 3 minutes waiting - super !!
About half the clientele were French and the rest seemed American. You could tell mainly from the look on their faces while reading the menu. My problem was that I wanted to try so many things that we did not have the time, appetite nor the table space to indulge in that experience.
So I started with some fromage de tête (head cheese), while my wife ordered a lobster bisque which if I recall contained blanced young garlic cloves and was delicious and not overpowering or as thick as the goopy American versions.
I remembered Bourdain's dining partner raving about the Ouef mayonnaise, so eggs being my favorite food, I had to request it from our waitress who seemed perplexed at my choice of a second entree (first course), but rolled her eyes and said "as you wish". Yes, indeed I do wish and glad I did since even this was not exactly what i had envisioned, the gently boiled eggs cut in half and covered in a rich curtain of mayonnaise was luxurious and delicious with the crusty baguette provided. The tiny table (maybe 16" diameter) made dining an interesting experience as I tried to balance the 2 entree plates of my side, almost flipping one of them over at a point in time.
For the main course (plat), I think my wife got a salad while I ordered the tripe stew (or tripes - like stripes in French), which were a revelation in how humble ingredients was be elevated to such high levels. I noticed at least 2-3 different types of tripe, each adding different textures and flavors.
Another surprise was the size of the portions. They were American-sized (about 2-3 times the size of the typical French serving). The trip stew was so huge, I just could not finish it all. Even the lobster bisque was served in a large bowl.
It was a cool night and we were seated, under the outdoor heaters mounted right about us, allowing me to experience what a Poulet Roti (rotisserie chicken) would feel like if it were alive. Luckily, I had bought a hat which I was able to use for protecting my otherwise burning scalp.
With 2-3 glasses of wine and no dessert later, the bill was about 80 Euros for 2. Not a bad deal in Paris but if this place did not have the fame it did, I am not sure the service and location (next to a bus stop) would make it the destination it has become.
I have been on the fence about whether this is a 3 star or 4 star experience, but the food puts it just over the top to 4 stars.
I really wanted to sample l' avant comptoir next door, but it is sooo tiny and soooo packed that the best I would have been able to do is order a crepe which you order and get served at the window on while standing on the street. read more