Wine tasting does not typically have a lot in common with the practices of mindful spiritual and philosophical inquiry. That's probably not what Robert Mondavi meant when he extolled the virtues of the wine country lifestyle. But Sonoma always tends to do things a bit differently than Napa, and at Pangloss Cellars, this is readily evident.
For starters, it's a wine cellar, not a vineyard or winery. The wines are made off site at a Moon Mountain facility (with caves for aging) using grapes sourced from Sonoma Valley and parts beyond, including Anderson Valley, the Alder Springs Vineyard in northern Mendocino County, and the west Sonoma Coast (which may soon become its own AVA). The winemaker, Erich B., is granted freedom to experiment with his wine technique and fermentation and aging styles, resulting in wines that prompt you to ponder, not party. It brings out the cerebral side of wine in addition to the sensual. I guess this is what happens when you take courses in intellectual history and philosophy at UC Irvine before being initiated into the winemakers' guild by training with Sonoma legends like Arrowood and Ramey; you are inspired not just by science and technology but also by the full panoply of the humanities to create a memorable cultural artifact rather than a mere commodity for the luxury market.
The classic bar tasting here, $25 for 5 wines, is best prearranged by phoning ahead of time to secure your spots facing the central heart of the stone walled tasting room, with a living olive tree emerging from the core. Around you are leather couches and comfortable looking armchairs where the more Epicurean inclined guests come to enjoy food and wine pairings or wines by the glass. The Stoics should stick to the bar, at least on their first visit, to truly appreciate the wines, which will evolve in the glass as the tasting proceeds. The Freemasons and Mystics are probably hiding out in the members-only Cellar tasting lounge in the back, or discussing the merits of Pommard versus Calera clones at the speakeasy style Texture tasting room (Chardonnay and Pinot only).
As far as the bar experience goes, meticulous attention to detail is key. Each of your pours will be served in its own, varietal specific glass. Pinot and Chardonnay get globe shaped stemware, while Bordeaux, Rhône, and New World wines like Zinfandel come in taller glasses that narrow at the top. Water glasses are polished sections of old dark glass wine bottles. Your menu and tasting notes come on textured paper that is pleasant to the touch.
The lighting is a mixture of natural light from East Napa Street and select fixtures like minimalist chandeliers. Music was muted, and extraneous conversation noises were dispersed by high ceilings and absorbed by non-reflective, noise cancelling surfaces, creating a library-like calm on the Saturday afternoon I visited. Books, painted pictures, and old photographs decorate the walls, but not to the point of overstimulation. Aggressive marketing materials, pandering wine critics' scores and reviews, and the standard array of wine tasting room collectibles were also absent. There is a sleek, salon-like feel to the space that evokes the 18th century Enlightenment era that inspired the Pangloss name, from Voltaire's famously wicked satire, Candide. The wine club is called the Optimist Society. Try doing any of this in Paso Robles or Napa. It just wouldn't fly.
Pangloss wines are limited in production and many are available to members only. The ones that guests can buy are larger production but still small runs of Pinot, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, and Cabernet. Access to the esoteric wines requires more commitment than a single visit, so start easy and see if you respond as positively to the Pangloss Weltanschauung as I did. Just leave the pessimists at home!
If you like wines made by Broc Cellars, Forlorn Hope, Mathiasson, Wind Gap, Drew, or Sean Thackeray, you'll probably be happy here at Pangloss, and your more open-minded friends will too. The wines here, while conversation-inducing, are more accessible than fundamentalist styles of natural wines made with high acid, spontaneous fermentation, low alcohol, and limited oak, but traditional, big and bold Sonoma Valley wines these aren't exactly, either.
A pilgrimage to Pangloss Cellars is highly recommended if you are feeling exhausted by more typically made, mass market wines or if you are simply looking to broaden your horizons into the world of single vineyard, small batch ultra premium wine that is priced well for the quality of the product being served. Enough to make an optimist out of almost anyone who worries about the future of Californian wine in a age of changing climates and consumer preferences. read more