The Dry Creek Valley is one of those interesting places in Sonoma wine country where old vine Zinfandel "field blends" are king, an ongoing effort at preserving heritage clones first introduced into the area by turn of the century Italian immigrants and their Californian descendants. It would be hard to imagine the area without its iconic, head-trained, gnarled vines sprouting lush, leafy canopies of green to guard the precious berry clusters from too much direct sunshine.
But the Dry Creek Valley is about more than heritage vines and field blended Zins. It is also a place for experimentation, for newer winemakers, along with their sons and daughters, to put down roots, graft new varietals, and try their hand at other things. Rhône reds. Lesser known Italian varietals like Teroldego, Fiano, Trebbiano, Montepulciano, Aglianico, and Nero d'Avola. The minor Bordeaux blending grapes, like Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère. Maybe not Chardonnay or Pinot - the Russian River AVA a few miles away has got a lock on those - but definitely room for Mediterranean grapes from Portugal, Spain, Southern France, Italy, Corsica, Sardinia, and Sicily. A Dry Creek Valley Cannonau, for example, would be awesome! What would California be without a little risk taking now and then?
Peterson is a very well calibrated mixture of the heritage side of Dry Creek combined with a more youthful, expressionistic streak. Using their Bradford Mountain estate (on the western side of the valley) as a site to try out different things, Peterson crafts limited amounts of around two dozen wines each vintage, from GSM blends done in a Côtes du Rhône style to single varietal bottlings of Bordeaux reds (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot) to a daring "3V" white blend of Verdelho, Vermentino, and Vernaccia. At the same time, they also source Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Sangiovese, and Barbera from other vineyards, often from heritage sites, to create a wide range of Zins and other hearty and soulful red wines that have cross-generational appeal.
It would be extremely difficult to sample the full range of Peterson wines on a single visit, but if you come with a friend or two, you can probably taste through 10-12 wines for modest tasting fees of $10-15. If you are into Zin (and chances are if you're considering a Dry Creek Valley visit, you are), you'll like the range of choices here. My favorites on a recent visit were the 2012 Bernier Vineyard dry farmed Zin (with Petite Sirah addition) and the 2013 Tradizionale Dry Creek Valley field blend. The Bernier has softer, lusher fruit and makes a great pairing with grilled pork chops and polenta, while the Tradizonale has the peppery spice and red berry flavors that would pair well with homemade pasta, pizza, or a hearty minestrone soup with fresh bread for dipping.
Among the Bradford Mountain wines, be sure to sample the Merlot and Petit Verdot if they are on the menu, as they have qualities particular to a higher elevation, rocky site that valley-floor grown Merlot and PV don't: more acid, more bramble and herbaceous elements that keep the fruit and alcohol in check. The best, most crowd-pleasing wines may well be the 2013 GSM estate blend, which has perfect Grenache fruit at its core framed by Syrah and Mourvèdre and a bit of Carignane for color and depth, and the 2013 Super Tuscan "Il Granaio," which combines Sangiovese from the Teldeschi Vineyard with Bradford Mountain estate grown Bordeaux varietals like Cab, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. Both of these wines embody well the Peterson trademark style of mixing old with new, combining Italian varietals with French noble reds, and accenting the wines with distinctive wine label art that uses animal motifs to symbolize the qualities of each wine (GSM is a wolf, the Super Tuscan is a goat, for example).
All in all, there is a lot of complexity to savor when you taste Peterson wines, but also plenty of room for fun, rusticity, and tradition as well. Make it a must stop on your next Dry Creek Valley visit! read more