I went on a trip to Portugal recently and on the last day I was in Lisbon and ate dinner by myself at a famous restaurant "Marisqueira Cervejaria Ramiro". In English, Marisqueira roughly translates to "Seafood Emporium" and Cervejaria "Beer Hall". That's what this place was - seafood and beer, no frills. Due to an appearance on "No Reservations" with Bourdain, it's constantly packed, mostly with tourists. I waited for close to a hour and a half for a table and it was more than worth it. It was, simply put, the best meal of my life.
First I ordered bread and butter - it comes it little connected rolls. I started scarfing these down as I was famished from a whole day of sightseeing. Then the oysters came out - a dozen. These were the biggest oysters I have ever seen in my life. My waiter (who was awesome) quickly refilled my Sagres (the only beer they serve) and brought out more bread, without me having to ask. You take the hunks of oyster and put them on the bread - simply fantastic.
Then - the main course. Giant Tiger prawns. Probably cooked in nothing more than oil, butter, garlic, wine, and some spices. The meat was the most unbelievable thing I have had in my life. Again, eat them using the rolls as a vessel - simply unbelievable.
By the end of the meal I was satisfied as I would ever be.
I left the next day and didn't have time to eat before boarding my flight home to Newark. I'm starving and the bad airline food doesn't help. The entire flight I was on my phone, looking up why we don't have restaurants like this in the States. I search for Marisqueiras or Cervejarias in Manhattan - no dice.
Then the lightbulb goes off - I remember Newark (the city I am flying to!) is known for the Ironbound, a vibrant Portuguese, Brazilian, and Spanish neighborhood. I quickly search "Marisqueira Newark" and come across Seabra's. I read a few reviews, all outstanding, and immediately think this may help me get my fix. I resolve to go there as I soon as I get off the plane.
I walk in and see the long bar. A friendly bartender sees with my luggage, a little drenched in rain, and offers to let me put it into a storeroom. I sit at the bar and order a Sagres. I hear Portuguese being spoken by all the staff and most of the diners at the bar or tables in the front and immediately start smiling to myself.
I order the same thing more or less - oysters and giant Tiger prawns (the dish was called Gambas Grelhadas, or Tiger Prawns spicy Mozambique style). Same bread and butter too. It was like I was back at Ramiro, eating the same meal I had been salivating over for the past 24 hours. The only thing that was different was the at Seabra's they also give you a plate of rice and these things that are a cross between French fries and potato chips - great for wrapping hunks of prawn meat in. It was a nice touch.
There is a more varied menu here, but it's definitely seafood centric. It's a similar setup too - open kitchen and you can see tanks of lobster and prawns and oysters over ice on the way to the dining room. The prices are reasonable, and the service is very good as well. I left for the train at Penn Station a very happy dude.
Since I can't go to Lisbon without getting on a plane, I will coming here to get my Portuguese food fix from now on. I am already planning on trying to convince my friends to make the trip over from New York!
Thank you Seabra's! read more