This falls into the category of 'best restaurants I've given only two stars to'...
The Oyster Bar is one of the finest restaurants in this neck of the woods, with a well-deserved reputation for its cuisine, but is hamstrung by some maddening logistical and housekeeping issues.
THE ROSES: Let's start with the obvious; the location is exquisite! on a cliff overlooking Samish Bay, TOB is where you go to celebrate anniversaries, birthdays, and to propose to that special someone. The dining rooms are long and narrow, and every table has at least a good view, and most have a spectacular view! There is also an outside deck for the gorgeous summer evenings we've been having, but they come with a caveat: more on that in a moment.
The food is, well, as the kids say, 'it's all that!' (mostly; more on that in a moment). An appetizer of a dungeness crab 'lasagna', served in a pool of a roasted pepper puree was nothing less than transcendent! The Quinoa Roulade is a vegan entree that could make this carnivore swear off meat, and the fried fresh local oysters were a delight!
One controversial thing about the restaurant is their policy of denying entry to any patrons under 9 years old. In Seattle, this would be 'casus belli', as hordes of well-heeled yuppie parents would picket the establishment for daring to deny entree to their precious little Ritalin-addled sprogs. Speaking as one who has had no end of flights, movies, and dinners ruined by over-indulged, out of control brats, I am totally behind this! Memo to would-be indignant parents: this policy was probably the result of a lot of bad experiences. When you're going to be dropping $100+ a patron for a dinner experience, you're paying wayyyyyy too much $$$ to have your evening ruined by an undisciplined kid. Before you complain, ask yourself, 'am I part of the problem?'.
THE THORNS: I hate to be the 'dog in the manger', given all the 5-star reviews, but this critique must be shared. It's easy to be a 'big fish in a small pond', but what can slide in Bow would never fly in say, Seattle.
1) Service is a bit inconsistent. Your experience depends a lot on who you get. On our level, we had two servers working the area. One was very attentive, and a rather charming raconteur, but the other was younger, a bit indifferent, and frequently 'AWOL'. We got stuck with the latter.
2) Not all the dishes were of stellar quality. The smoked salmon chowder was, to be brutally honest, thin, weak in the flavour department, and I wasn't getting any of the smoked salmon taste. Did they simply wave a smoked salmon in front of the pot and call it good?
3) Pacing left a LOT to be desired. Apertifs and first course were prompt enough, but there was a gap in time between the second and main courses that made me wonder if the kitchen staff was rappelling down to the bay to get my oysters. The entrees are served with a delightful cheese & onion souffle; I suspect they ran out, and had to fire a fresh batch, hence the delay. Keeping us in the loop would've helped. This was a case where the pacing wasn't 'romantically slow', it was downright glacial!
4) If you DO choose a seat on the outside deck, do so when there's a north wind. We were repeatedly hit with wafts of 'overfull septic tank smell' coming from somewhere, and that did put a bit of a damper on our experience.
5) Parking sucks. No lot, just street parking, and if it's busy, you may be in for a hike.
SO WHY ONLY TWO STARS? This is not a cheap restaurant. The oysters on the half-shell are rather spendy, and the wine list is skewed towards the 1%. When you're playing at this price point, little annoyances become big annoyances. What may slide in Bow would never fly in Seattle.
THE VERDICT: Big fish in a small pond, The Oyster Bar offers some really show-stopping dishes that match their view, but is somewhat hamstrung by inconsistencies in service, pacing, and - if you're outside - the risk of a rather offensive assault upon your olfactories!
I say check it out, but dine inside! read more