Old Town Junction is a fantastic find in the heart of downtown Newhall; a sly merger of a modern,…read moreupscale food & drink program with the ambiance of an old-time saloon, and it all works really well.
You're drawn in by the familiar, comfortable design featuring mirrored signs with writing in Victorian style fonts that continue onto the menus. They have marble tables and counters, with comfortable chairs, and lots of light coming in through the windows. The staff is all smiles and very welcoming, happy to help you navigate the very interesting bill of fare, and making sure your cocktail is made exactly as you like.
I was dining solo, so I sat at the bar, and James took excellent care of me from start to finish. I asked for a Bombay Sapphire Martini with Olives; James immediately offered regular or blue cheese-stuffed olives, and asked if I preferred the martini shaken or stirred. The drink that emerged was well-balanced, cold and very tasty.
The menu is filled with all sorts of interesting choices. Some are familiar items like salads and fishes and hamburgers or cheesesteak sandwiches done in their way -- but my eye immediately went to a very unique starter: Duck Fat Potato Confit. Say what? As James explained, it is a whole potato that has been slow cooked in duck fat (confit, as we know) and served as the main attraction in the dish as one might similarly feature a duck leg or short rib. I had to order this, and it turned out to be one of the most rewarding dishes I've eaten in a long time.
The aforementioned, slow-cooked potato initially appears a bit like a whole boiled potato, but looks are deceiving. Because of the cooking method, the potato holds it's consistency and shape much more than a boiled or baked potato, cutting almost like a protein. It's solid but tender, and as it has absorbed quite a bit of flavor during the cooking, this potato is far tastier on its own than those other iterations. But you are NOT eating this potato unadorned. Oh no, this potato is dressed with caramelized onions, smoky bacon lardons, wild mushrooms and a rich, very flavorful demi-glace. All together, you've layers upon layers of flavor that make you ignore all distractions and really concentrate on the pleasure you're getting from your food. But that's not all...
Perhaps the cleverest element of a dish composed entirely of clever elements is the Mornay Sauce. Snow white, and with enough of just the right cheese to add texture to the Bechemel without becoming too powerful, the sauce is plated on the bottom, with the potato resting atop it. Visually, this looks like mashed potatoes served underneath a protein, and it plays the same role texturally -- but because you wouldn't serve potatoes with a potato, the sauce is a lighter accompaniment, whose flavor marries perfectly with the more complex sauce coming from above, and you cannot help but marvel at this stroke of culinary magic. Just wow.
I finished with a dessert of Key Lime Budino, which was rich and creamy with a serious hit of sour from the Key Lime. A nice and refreshing shift after the savory richness of my entree.
How lucky are the people of Newhall and Santa Clarita that they have a restaurant making such interesting and excellent food? I come up at least once a month for a music event, and how lucky am I to have discovered this place to eat beforehand? And by the way: if you live in the San Fernando Valley, this place is really less than 30 minutes away (without traffic), so the next time you're thinking of going over the hill to a place in Beverly Hills or Santa Monica, you may want to head North instead. I promise you, The Old Town Junction will become your new favorite.
