Sushi has long departed its status as an exotic excursion in major US cities where people venture to sample the highly sophisticated, yet wild food. Most customers of Toro Sushi, I presume, are not first-time sushi eaters and the restaurant provides an excellent means of endorsing their tastes. The selection of Maki and Nigiri/Shashimi is diverse and certainly interesting. The quality of fish is one of the best in the city for mid-level prices. The two-stars given to Toro at present has nothing to do with their food, for it is fantastic. However, the abysmal service and bland presentation fails to elevate this restaurant into the upper echelons of Chicago offerings that are able to provide a unique, defining experience despite the (at times mundane) prevalence of their cuisine.
There is no hostess, which given the small nature of the place, is understandable. However, the waitresses who serve intermittently as hostesses inconsistently follow reservations and give very poor estimates on availability; it is not uncommon to be told there are no tables for at least an hour and observe a party get seated while you waited outside talking with your friends (the party did not have a reservation, this was verified between both waitresses). Given its prestige, expecting some difficulty getting a table could be pardoned if it wasn't for the poor service. Either from being allotted too many responsibilities, underpay, or bad selection of service employees, the waitresses were absent for most of each meal. Each waitress has an unpolished disposition that would be expected of a mid-90s Chinese take-out restaurant with two tables for the occasional customer choosing to dine in.
The logistics of take-out and dine-in have not been properly established and it is common to see the best of Toro's sushi chefs working laboriously on take-out orders while multiple in-house orders are pending, leaving many patrons to wait extensively for their food. As a consequence, an ama-ebi sushi order was presented cold, when the head should be expected to be slightly warm. Also, the lack of efficient order management resulted in a hamachi being served "ice-cold". The fish was so cold that it contained ice-crystals in the center of the meat. Given the cold environment of the restaurant, the hamachi did not warm up to a palatable temperature even by the end of the meal; I am sure Mitch himself would never have served such a plate, but it was observed that he did not personally prepare this or assess the quality of his assistant's work. Appreciating the Inuit culture should not be an aspect of Chicago cuisine unless stated so on the menu. Sacrificing quality can be undesirable in any case, but valuing the quality of take-out over the dine-in experience seems flawed.
On the nature of the restaurant itself, it is evident immediately that little to no money has been invested in renovating the design or environment. The restaurant is poorly insulated, leaving most patrons to retain their frigid cold weather attire and it allows a most obvious and penetrating smell of pizza from the neighboring slice shop. The design, although distinct, is homely and unpolished. The plates and cups are all plastic and monotonic in design and color. Perhaps, the lack of quality in aesthetics allows for a casual appreciation of the quality fish, but the lack of environmental controls prevents even this from being accomplished.
Good people work here who care for their cuisine. Some reinvestment of money should be made in controlling the environment and improving service and logistics. The aesthetics of Toro Sushi could work for them and provide a high quality, casual sushi experience. However, as it stands, it serves as a poor understatement of Mitch's capacity and good nature. read more