** 4.5 stars **
A small, unassuming venue for uncompromised Thai food in Woodside, a low-key neighborhood dotted with Thai restaurants. As much as NYC is a culinary epicenter of depth and diversity, the cuisine of Thailand is unexpectedly absent. What most purportedly Thai restaurants in NYC serve is bastardized, and if you seek the real deal, Woodside is a required destination. Surprisingly, this is only the second Thai restaurant I've ventured to Woodside to try, this also being home to Sripraphai, the only place I've respected to date.
Ayada is a simple, casual place, with numerous media clippings singing its accolades posted outside. Inside, it is currently painted a jarring bright lime green, with a cluster of old black and white family photos centered on one wall. Probably seating 20 people at most, it fills up quickly, becoming convivial. A counter sits at the back, possibly a holdover from their days as a grocer, a multi-tiered display of bright mangoes reminding us we needed to order something using them. Our waitresses were straightforward and courteous, busy but not hard to find.
The menu is extensive albeit not as encyclopedic as Sripraphai, which may be good if you argue that no restaurant can make everything well when their offerings number in the hundreds. Our choices focused on salads and seafood, incorporating preferences from everyone in the group.
I am not familiar enough with Thai to appreciate regional variations. I've read that Ayada serves Isaan Thai, as does Sripraphai and Zabb Elee. It probably accounts for the curiously spelled E-san sour sausage, pink-hued and diagonally sliced, piled on a plate with rounds of ginger, chilis, cucumbers, red onion slivers, peanuts, and whole lettuce leaves. It seemed obvious we were meant to consume them assembled into hand rolls, dipped in a chili sauce. The fresh sausage was savory and soft, the ginger zing countering perfectly.
I was most memorably arrested by one of their signature dishes, an unshelled shrimp tucked in the half moon curve of a bitter melon slice, topped with a garlic clove and a generous dollop of chili-lime sauce. Meant to be eaten in one bite, it's an inspired combination of flavors and textures that's all the more interesting because each component is actually raw. A sublime mouthful, intense and complete.
The level of heat for dishes generated a spirited negotiation with our waitress, who seemed dismayed that we wanted to try "Thai spicy," the top of the scale. One in our party was certain, but she spent quality time in Thailand. In the end, we went with "spicy" for everything, reserving "Thai spicy" for another of our meal's highlights, the piquant, refreshing papaya salad. It was a prudent decision; although I suspect our "Thai spicy" was still restrained, it was a pleasant heat in one dish alone but likely would not have been so for me if all our dishes were so seasoned.
Their salads successfully balanced salt, sweet, sour, and heat. Besides the headliner papaya salad, there was sweetly delicious mango salad heaped amidst crisp fried soft shell crab, juicy inside, fresh crab. We ordered sticky rice, scooped out by hand to soak up the salad dressing; my companion was delighted it was served in the same manner as they do in Thailand, in a plastic bag tucked in a wicker container with lid.
Although their classic pork laab was competently made, I confess to being far more enamored with the fruit salads. Similarly lacking excitement was an otherwise perfectly fine stir-fry of eggplant and ground chicken, gently flavored with chili and garlic.
Not entirely unexpected were some disappointments. A simple dish of steamed mussels was both overcooked and bland; if it weren't so mediocre, we could complain about its miniscule size too. I've always loved the Thai style of frying whole fish and topping it with a sour and spicy salad, but we were all open to trying fish made differently. Ayada has several preparations of whole red snapper. Our waitress steered us towards fried when we considered steamed, and talked us into swapping out the outstanding mango salad (to pair with the aforementioned soft shell crab instead) for a basil sauce. Unfortunately, the outcome was a somewhat overcooked fish with incredibly mild-mannered seasoning. I'm willing to give the fish another go in another sauce, assuming this was an off-prep.
Fortunately, we ended on a high note as Ayada aces the classic mango sticky rice dessert, with warm rice soaked in a light coconut sauce, delicious with ripe, tender mango. As full as we were, this was worth making room for.
Ayada serves traditional, authentic Thai in a casual, unpretentious setting. It is similar to but edges out Sripraphai because I like the setting better (the latter is too cafeteria style now), the more focused menu, and that divine raw shrimp. Not every dish is great, but order well and you'll find this is some of the best Thai you can get in NYC. read more