Top-line practical points to know: Emma's Kitchen is indeed still open. Some posts seemed to suggest that it had closed, and/or that it had temporarily changed locations to the inside of the KTA supermarket across the parking lot, but as of 15 April 2025 Emma's Kitchen is still open, or perhaps reopened, and is still in its original location in the Waikoloa Village shopping center (the old/original one on the north side of Waikoloa Road) food court, between a Mexican restaurant and a Thai establishment.
Which reminds me, be sure to note that Waikoloa Village isn't the same thing as the Waikoloa Beach resort, the village being 6 miles inland up the hill and where more of the local folks live, and the latter down by the ocean and where the Marriott is located - the shared Waikoloa name can be confusing. Which also reminds me that driving up the hill to the village I saw a man in a full business suit and tie walking down the shoulder of Waikoloa Road, nothing around for miles, looking down at the ground with an oddly peaceful, or maybe resigned, expression on his face, out of place among the volcanic rock fields and herds of goats, like someone who'd walked away from a wedding, perhaps. Funny how things work out sometimes.
You'll want to call ahead to confirm operating hours, even though they're listed here - the day we went, they closed at 6:30pm instead of 7. And as a final point, you'll want to be sure to ask if they're taking credit cards instead of finding out the hard way like I did that they may be taking cash only that day, which led to a bit of panic nonetheless followed by a gracious resolution and ultimately the dinner we'd dreamed about for the past three years since our last visit.
Practicalities now out of the way, some thoughts about the place and the food, this review was prompted by our return to Emma's Kitchen since our first couple of visits during our last trip to the Big Island in April of 2022. You can see the pictures others have posted of the handwritten signs, the menu additions made of photographic cutouts taped around the restaurant's order and takeout window, the two ladies in hairnets who may be twins behind the counter, all elements that make this little shop feel super-low budget, hyper-local, and personal.
For the past three years all our daughter, now 12 years old, could talk about when we'd bring up our vacation in 2022 was Emma's pork lumpia, fried egg rolls roughly the size and shape of a cigarillo, but this dish was the reason we had to come back, the reason we've been ordering lumpia at every single restaurant with Filipino food around us, chasing this dragon we tasted when our daughter was 9. I'm sure the veggie lumpia are probably pretty good too, but our kid takes after me with respect to our shared love of pork, and the juicy, savory filling contrasted with the crackle of the fried egg roll skin is one of those textural contrasts that delight. Just kidding, we eat the damn things too quickly to be so reflective about the niceties that make them so delicious.
Actually, I take that back, there may be something about contrasting textures being what makes so many of the dishes here so good. The crispy pork belly is perhaps better described as crunchy, the crisp part like a denser snack chicharron with tender meat attached to it, a bite crackles between one's teeth. The crispy chicken (huh - pattern of crisp) is an entire half of a bird, the skin at Thomas Keller levels of chickeny crunch, or so I'd imagine if I could ever afford to eat anything he'd ever made. Kind of the nice thing about places like Emma's Kitchen, it's got the sort of details that make some fine dining great but relatively affordable after all of the money you sank into the rental property you're staying at, but hey, it's Hawaii, it's worth every single cent.
I kind of think of pancit as a homey dish made by some of the older nurses at work, shared when we're all working a holiday, but unlike the breakroom pancit Emma's version of the dish is a little perfect, not too tangy, not too oily, but it still tastes like it's shared refuge from the battering outside of the potluck.
I've been eating some version of jook my entire life, a dish for when you're sick, or sometimes as a dish to keep you healthy, almost always described as comfort in a bowl, but Emma's version subverts that notion, they aggressively, almost assaultively season the dish with black pepper to almost comical levels. I am reminded of an episode of Three's Company wherein a misunderstanding (as usual) leads to not only Jack but multiple other people adding pepper to a pasta sauce, but instead of taking affront the intended accidental victim, after making some laughably goofball faces meant to signal how spicy it is, explains that he's finally found a pasta sauce that takes just like how his (apparently dysgeustic) mother used to make it. And that's how I make jook now, all of that pepper.
We love this place. Be nice. Tip well. read more