"Craft Beers and Whiskeys and Food, oh my!"
Beer is bringing sexy back. Yes, we Irish have a reputation for beer-guzzling, and no, it's nothing new, but the past few years have seen a whole new level of cool when it comes to our brews. Gone are the days when a pint was an unsophisticated choice, when wine-lovers could snort with derision whilst smugly sipping over-priced Pinot Grigio. Beer is back, baby.
Nowhere in Dublin is this as obvious as in L. Mulligan Grocer, a rather oddly-named pub in Stoneybatter. Get the Luas down there; trust me, you do not want to be the designated driver tonight. Mulligans looks like a funny little old-man pub, both inside and out, but the place packs an unexpected punch: the pub grub here is some of the best in the city, and if you're a beer- or whiskey-lover, you are in for one hell of a treat.
The specialities here are craft beers and whiskeys, and the staff are well-versed in recommendations and in food-pairings (as well as being bloody good craic.) The drinks menu is impressive,and that's an understatement; on my first visit, we counted ninety-two Scotches alone - and that's before you even begin looking at Irish whiskeys, American bourbons, and a pleasantly-surprising Japanese selection. The list of beers is equally vast, and features some lovely little beauts from around the world. Be warned: with so many intriguing options, even choosing your pre-dinner drink is somewhat stressful.
The food menu isn't much easier to handle; everything just looks so damn good. This is solidly good, traditional pub grub, made using the best and most sustainable of Irish produce, and a seriously funky modern twist. Start with a free-range Scotch egg made with "seasoned rare-breed pork and herby crumbs," served on a wooden board with Dijon mayo, Mullagaloe relish, and red chard (€5), or get your juices going with a half-pint of Dublin Bay prawns dolloped with a lemony Hoegaarden mayo (€7.50). For main course, the classic Chicken Kiev (€16) has been given a makeover with a hazelnut crumb coating, and an Inishowen whiskey, citrus and garlic butter filling; this comes with comforting creamed corn, a spiced beetroot slaw, and chunky chips - fried twice, for extra crunch. (Those chips are every bit as good as they sound.) The lamb burger (€16) is fat and juicy, topped with Ardsallagh goats' cheese and bacon, and snug in a rosemary and tomato bun. Should you need some comfort food, you can also avail of a full Sunday roast - with two kinds of spuds, 'cause this is Ireland, and we like carbs. As a helpful and interesting added touch, each menu option is followed by suggested beer and whiskey pairings.
There are several other lovely and thoughtful little touches to the service at Mulligans. The menus, for example, are pasted into old, dusty novels with crinkly pages. The über-friendly staff will let you sample any of the beers on draught before you commit to ordering one, rendering the decision-making process even more difficult, but quite tasty. Finally, when you ask for the bill, it comes in the familiar "geometry set," metal tin we all knew and hated as school children, along with brown paper bags of "penny sweets," to further provoke a regression to childhood. (The bill, by the way, is always reasonable, even after three beers and six whiskeys... although as I write this I do realise my judgement may have been slightly off kilter.)
To put my admiration of this place in a nutshell (one perfectly accompanied by a pint of dark, chocolatey porter): I don't live in the city centre, and it takes me over an hour-and-a-half to get to Stoneybatter on public transport, and the same to get home again. Despite this, I've eaten there four times in the past year. If you appreciate good food, sourced from admirable producers, or even if you just fancy something a bit different drink-wise, get thee to L. Mulligan Grocer. Beer is back. Beer is sexy. Beer loves a good Scotch egg.
Web: www.lmulligangrocer.com
Twitter: @lmulligangrocer read more