We all are biased reviewers, but with Locanda del Borgo, I must admit, I am really biased.
My family and friends have dined here at least 50-times since it opened and I think we know the menu well.
When I enter Locanda (inn) del Borgo (Village), I get the warm fuzzy feeling of my favorite neighborhood establishment that knows my wife and adult children and knows what our demands are because over the years we have had many discussions with Giancarlo and his staff about what works and what does not work.
Locando del Borgo knows exactly what it is. It is a neighborhood Italian restaurant, not an Osteria, nor a Trattoria, that takes advantage of what is good and available in the market while assiduously maintaining the set menu items.
In the September 6th, 2004 issue of The New Yorker Malcolm Gladwell wrote an article entitled, "The Ketchup Conundrum." In the article he explained why some food products are market dominate while others are not. He introduced to me the concept of "amplitude" which is a word that describes our sensory reactions to the 5-elements of taste: sweet, sour, salt, bitter, and umami. When all of these component parts of a dish come together to form a unique sensory experience in our mouths, the food is said to have broad amplitude.
I have digressed with this description of a technical food science term because it is so essential to good cooking. It is the characteristic of a meal that tells you to return to have it again.
Giancarlo's food has amplitude. It is why we return.
The salads are special. Beet salad, butter lettuce with pears and gorgonzola, an artichoke heart offering all leave me with an impression of "I'll order that again." The pastas are the star of the restaurant. The short rib sauce, the italian sausage, the bolognese, the simple tomato..all are imprinted on my sensory memory.
The wine list is broad in its reach and affordable in its pricing. Last night our group ordered a white ($34) and a red ($36) from Italy that we had never tried. We felt no trepidation for we trust Locanda's selections. Both were great values .
Desserts? Tiramisu ("Pick me up"), Panacotta (cooked cream with fresh fruit), the chocolate torte are all good. The panacotta always has the right amount of jiggle to let you know that there is not excessive amounts of gelatin.
So my scorecard looks like this:
1. Ambience (weight of 1): warm, simple, comfortable. Not elegant. Very nice covered patio. Open kitchen that adds to the warmth. Pizza oven open to the public. What you generally see is that the customers do not pay attention to the happenings in the kitchen. They are absorbed in their appreciation of the meal. Score: 7
2. Beverage selection (weight of 1): Great bar, very nice wine list; a perfect match for the place; reasonably priced. Score: 8
3. Presentation of food (weight of 1): Once again, not elegant, but clean, neat, warm, friendly. Score: 8.
4. Price/Value (Weight of 1): It's a great deal to dine at Locanda. Score 8.
5. Service (Weight of 2): It can be inconsistent, especially with the turnover of some wait staff, but generally, they are well-trained, attentive, and kind. Score: 7 x 2 = 14.
6. Quality of Food (Weight of 2): Score: 8 x 2 = 16.
7. AMF Factor (Weight of 2): This factor measures how well the restaurant executes its value proposition. Locanda del Borgo knows exactly what it offers to make guests feel content and it executes that proposition very well. Score 9 x 2 = 18.
Ambience: 7
Beverage: 8
Presentation: 8
Price/Value: 8
Service: 14
Food Quality: 16
AMF Factor: 18
Total 79/100 read more