How does one impress a jaded New Yorker who finds diminishing returns in Manhattan's Michelin Star scene? Why, offer a criminally under-the-radar restaurant with spectacular service! Montiel impresses in every way, and the price tag is extremely reasonable for the quality of food and service.
Food tastiness: 4.7
Originality of culinary ideas: 4.9
Service: 5
Comparison with Peers: 5
Full review and explanation of the numbers:
The food was great. It wasn't the most amazing food I have ever tasted, but it was excellent and definitely within the range of the most elite fine dining restaurants. In particular, the duck foie served with quince jelly and a sweet balsamic reduction was expertly balanced and delicious. Likewise, a tuna tartar seasoned lightly with soy sauce, topped with salmon roe in toasted sesame, pine nuts, and a delicate mustard ice cream was a triumph of subtle flavoring. Also worth mentioning was the catch of the day, sea bream grilled then placed in broth, garnished with an artichoke chip, fresh peas, leak, potato, and pulpitos (tiny octopus). And, as other reviewers have mentioned, the suckling pig was unctuous and rich as only suckling pig can be.
At the same time, it must be acknowledged that many restaurants do high end food well. Especially in Barcelona, where one must labor always in the shadow of internationally acclaimed culinary giants *ahem Adrias and disciples* great food sadly just isn't enough.
What sets Montiel apart is first its playful originality when it comes to preparations. A salad is prepared not just with a perfectly cooked and delicious crayfish tail, but also with a light mango puree as dressing. The aforementioned mustard ice cream is also a moment of child-like pleasure. Another dish, a duck ravioli topped with pungent mushrooms, teases you with a trace of tartness in the duck filling where you would expect to taste only creamy richness. In this way, almost every dish is an exuberant celebration of the way our taste buds may be manipulated by precise technique.
Not every dish was perfect, of course (the cheese course, in particular, was just blah). But the overall experience of the meal was just FUN.
The other place where Montiel excels is service. My waiters were friendly, informative, knowledgeable, and above all, passionate about the food that they were serving. Their passion was infectious; it made me want to enjoy the food even more. And they were ready to make any adjustments or changes to the meal that I wanted, treating me (as all wait staff should) like a king.
At one point, my waiter saw me concentrating intensely over my plate. As if sensing my thoughts he said "that is a reduction of..."
"Balsamic," I finished for him. "But..."
"We add grape juice to it."
"Ah."
And we smiled at each other.
Finally, compared to other restaurants with the same quality of food, Montiel presents a much greater value. The tasting menu for two with two aperitifs and a bottle of wine cost only 163 euros. I would go as far as to say that this undervalues the experience you will have at this restaurant, especially because I evaluate the experience I had against restaurants with tasting menus of $150 or above.
In the end, I am torn. On one hand, I've spilt quite a bit of electronic ink to give this restaurant the accolade it deserves. I want nothing more than for the hard work of the kitchen and wait staff to be rewarded. On the other hand, my fear is that if enough people find out about this place, the great value of the experience will decrease. So you must must MUST eat here if you are in Barcelona. But don't, and let me have your reservation instead. read more