Review #967
2026-033
Food Order:
Terrine of Duck Liver on Garlic Toast $350 for 2
8 Lb. Cherry Wood Smoked Fresh Buddha Style Duck (Peking style prep with potatoes, turnips, & three cornered onions)
Crisp Duck Legs + Castelfranco & Salanova Mixed Greens Salad with Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette
Duck Egg Crème Brûlée
2024 Les Quatre Piliers, Touraine, Ancrage; Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France $21
My brother wanted to get together for Lunar New Year & suggested Adam Perry Lang's CNY Duck Roast Dinner at the defunct Birdie G's.
I arrived at 6:10 PM to skip the valet for the limited street parking. Chef Lang emailed the night before to clarify the dinner's intended flow that wasn't explained in the portal; however, the email over promised & under delivered. Doors open at 6:00 PM & the table is for the entire evening. He advises to arrive by 7:00 PM, & dinner will begin at 7:30 PM.
I sipped a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, & sampled the Terrine of Duck Liver with Garlic Toast after 30-mins. of waiting. Deliciously rich & savory, creamy & smooth liver over a garlicky, crunchy toast -- great starter! B joined me shortly & sampled crudités dipped in flaky salt.
Seated at a booth near the prep table end just after 7:00 PM, we started with Maison Matho's baguette with butter. Crunchy, crisp exterior, & an airy interior that was exceptional with a slab of butter, except the pointy end was burnt & hard as a rock. It was an hour wait before the main course was served.
Chef Lang's culinary pedigree at Daniel, Le Cirque, & Restaurant Guy Savory says a lot about his training, then switched to BBQ & is known for his "low & slow" oak & cherry wood-smoked meats. His Buddha style riff on 10-day dry aged duck while decent in flavor, fails to live up to the "attitude" of the original's specialized prep... rich, savory, & sweet meat with a mahogany-colored, crisp, flavorful skin. The rendering of fat is a defining step for an authentic Buddha Duck & is a multi-day process for rendered fat & crisp skin. While the duck just added depth, it's more for Canard à la Presse, not Buddha Duck.
The portal notes a side of "Potatoes & Thumbelina Carrots" (roasted in duck drippings with confit duck tongue, garlic, sage, parsley) & email states "potatoes roasted in duck fat with glazed turnips, & wild three cornered onion." There were a couple cuts of potato which were delish, & no turnips; B mentioned there was only 1 & he ate it. No confit duck tongue?
We were famished & finished the main fairly quick, & sat for another hour waiting for the duck leg salad; B added another Chardonnay. It was a beautifully delish mix of mild bitterness with buttery sweetness & perfectly seasoned with a tangy zingy vinaigrette. The duck leg's fat was more rendered, though there's still a thin layer; it was served cool & a bit gamey. There was extra duck liver left & servers were making rounds on the baguette instead of garlic toast so it was nice that B didn't miss out. We finished just in time for dessert to be served at 9:51 PM. I really enjoyed the more eggy & richer Duck Egg Crème Brûlée, but it could have been better if it was served chilled contrasting the torched sugar topping than lukewarm. Satsuma & Kishu mandarins were to follow, but seeing the servers cleaning up while guests started leaving, I didn't bother asking since I only saw blackberries on the prep counter but no mandarins. They symbolize wealth, luck, & prosperity, which would have been a perfect sendoff with the intention of wishing his guests well in the Year of the Horse! Though every pair/table had one 2026 Lucky Gold Coin (開運金幣) was a nice memento for this LNY dinner, the other party is left empty handed without this positive goodwill.
Even with Chef Lang's email forewarning the dinner's flow, it was a letdown especially with his street creds. The old kitchen wasn't optimized (by intention?) further dragging the time between courses as Chef Lang asks for patience & trust as he personally cuts & carves the ducks with his able team. During the downtime, guests are encouraged to move around while the room finds its rhythm; this dinner is too big (# of people) & too tight (constricted space) for that kind of interactive intimacy. With quite a few diners either full because the star duck had settled or the late night, they left early with their salad boxed & skipping dessert with some waiting longer for dessert to be boxed. True to his word, the DJ's jams fit a mood of soulful 70s to R&B & hip hop classics of the 80s & 90s.
Dinner began just after 8:00 PM & ended at 10:00 PM for 4 courses: baguette, duck, duck legs salad, & dessert, of which an hour was wait time between plates. And not counting the almost 2 hours before service... even with a glass of wine (which required extra payment) & hors d'oeuvres of duck liver toast & crudités, that's a long dinner with just 6 & missed executions on the main. Think I'll stick to his weekend BBQs at Gin Rummy instead. read more