Cheli is an upscale Chinese restaurant on St. Mark's Place, just next door to beloved sister restaurant Szechuan Mountain House. The cuisine is far-ranging but focuses on seafood and draws from traditional dishes, with a sweeter and more delicate palate versus the spice and tingle next door. I've been three times now and I'm placing them somewhere between "the best Chinese in New York Right now" and "overhyped."
Let's start with the great:
- Wine-soaked chicken should be on every table. Beautiful broth, tender chicken, just perfect technique.
- Braised rice should also be on every table. It's stuffed with mushrooms and slightly spicy peppers, soaked in a not-too-sweet sauce.
- House special fish stew is addictive, and on par with what you can get out in Sunset Park and Flushing.
- Cony meat is amazing. Do not look up what they are because they are unfortunately extremely cute, but this spice on this perfectly complements the gaminess of the meat.
- Sixi wheat gluten (or braised kaofu as I've seen it at other places) is delicious, slightly sweet, and unique.
- Soup dumplings are perfect, gives specialists like Nan Xiang a run for their money.
Then the okay:
- Longjing shrimp is presented dramatically with its billowing smoke, which may merit an order on its own. This was tender and tasted fine, just didn't get any tea flavor.
- Puer tea soaked rice with urchin is also dramatically presented, but also thought it was just fine.
- Braised pork belly was also fine, the quail eggs were the best part.
- Sea urchin egg tofu stew was okay, I'd skip given the premium in price.
- Triple crisp (on the dim sum menu) were intricately constructed, but all kind of similarly flavored flaky pastry. Except for the durian, which was actually not bad.
- Lobster was good and not a bad value for price, but nothing that interesting about it.
- Steamed yellow croaker was small for the price and ordinary tasting, though the rice on top soaked in a sweet rice wine sauce was delicious-- wish we could get a plate of that.
- More "to each their own," but the peach resin stew with crab meat is... interesting. I found the sweet and preserved taste combined with the funky seafood taste to be nauseating, but my boyfriend thinks this is amazing.
Dishes are fairly expensive, and it can rack up if you go seafood-heavy, but I've found our bills to be reasonable, especially if ordering large dishes in a group (under $50).
Ambiance is fantastic-- immersive restaurant design, feels like you're in a rural yet refined teahouse. This carries over into the scroll-like menus and elegant dishware. On a recent visit, the dishware was somewhat chipped, including the spout of a teapot, which feels dangerous. Many teas on offer and some traditional beverages (think sweet rice wine) and beers; I don't think of it as a drinking place, though.
Service is mixed. Food comes out as-ready; this has generally worked out well but we were once waiting for a fish 20 minutes after finishing the rest of our food. Majority of servers are great, not super friendly but working quickly and easy to get their attention.
But there's one female server I've had twice with an attitude, who literally tells you not to get certain things. I'm not talking gently steering away or helping you construct your meal, but as in we tried to order signature dishes and she said, "No, don't get that" pretty rudely. This was on repeat visits where we knew we wanted specific dishes, and the second time we just pushed for those dishes anyway (and liked what we got). Both times she was also shocked (shocked!) that Asian people in our party did not speak Cantonese, and kept bringing it up even after we laughed it off? Just weird.
Finally, it's still annoyingly difficult to get a table. Reservations are only for groups of 6+, so you'll typically be quoted an hour plus wait, which I don't find to be that accurate. My visits went something like: quoted over an hour and a half, took 45 minutes; quoted an hour, took an hour fifteen; quoted 20 minutes, took an hour.
Overall, I think Cheli is definitely worthy of a visit. The menu is just so big and varied, and the hit dishes so well executed, that even after some meh experiences I'd be happy to go back to try more of the menu. read more