Having just celebrated its 80th anniversary, Canter's remains a fixture of the Fairfax district,…read morethough the light coming from this fixture is starting to flicker and fizzle big time. The large neon signs out front may appear properly retro at night, but look unpleasantly in need of repair in the daylight. The same is true of the restaurant's interior, with dim lighting, dull orange booths, and long-unpolished chrome giving the place a somewhat depressing aura. That visual is unfortunately paired with a sour, mildewed smell, as if the entire place had been wiped down with mops and rags that should have been thrown out months ago. Despite all this, I decided to stay and have the meal I'd planned, as I hadn't been here in a long time.
There wasn't much business at 11am on a Thursday, so I slid right into a seat at the counter (the only person at the counter) and was deftly handled by a waiter named Jeff, who was pleasant and attentive, making sure I had everything I needed, and checking in on me several times during my meal. He's a good egg, and I hope he got a good deal more business before the end of his shift.
Where Canter's gets some extra points is with their prices, which are currently several dollars below what you'll pay at the other legacy delis in town. The portions are a tad smaller, but are in no way skimpy; that said, my sandwich, soda and tax wound up being about the price you'll pay for just a sandwich at other places, so you're getting a decent bang for your buck.
I ordered the Bronx Special, which is a combo sandwich of Pastrami and Chopped Liver. Canter's is the only place I know of in L.A. that serves this sandwich open faced, which allows you to more easily combine the two main items to your liking. The pastrami could have been hotter and a little juicier, but had good flavor without being too salty, so I found the compromise to be worth it. The Chopped Liver had a fresh and mild flavor, and had just the right consistency: a balance between creaminess and a rustic chop, reminding you at all times that you're eating Jewish style chopped liver, not paté.
Cole slaw served on the side was fresh and cool, with a nice balance of bitter cabbage and sweet carrot. I personally would prefer that it be a bit creamier, but I know my wife, who intensely dislikes mayo, would really love this version. Pickles were of the half-sour variety, which I really enjoy -- and these had a nice pop of garlic and spice, so they made their presence known.
In the end, a meal at Canter's is a mixed bag these days. The deli food may not be the very best in town, but is still quite decent, and the affordable prices are much appreciated. However, the dim lighting and physical decline of the venue combine to create the atmosphere of a dive, and that most definitely subtracts from the overall enjoyment of eating there.