I should not review this restaurant--because my review will be glowing and more people will discover F de M and thus crowd the likes of me out!--though, as President and Mrs. Obama, inter famous alia, dined here, it's probably not like the world's best kept secret.
I lived very close to F de M in Paris' storied 7th on a work assignment for several months and thus would eat at F de M about once a week; it wasn't nearly often enough. I should note that before living in France, I had never really eaten or been interested in French food. I "discovered" F de M on a neighborhood walk and was converted upon my first "repas." I tried to not have the "formule" when I was in France (in Ile de France and some other parts of France, it is generally assumed that one will have three courses at dinner in a restaurant--the "formule," which Americans may know as a Prix Fixe menu), but I almost always did at Fontaine de Mars--all courses were mother-fucking divine. The confit canard, a personal favorite, was great, but the saumon, the boeuf, the coq au vin were similarly perfect. For dessert, the mousse, the lemon island thing and the baba rhum--rum cake, where as much rum as you prefer is added to a sponge cake before your very eyes!--should either be served in heaven or just prior to eternal damnation. F de M is in France, so the wine is good even without trying to be so.
The restaurant space is beautiful--downstairs perhaps being a little more formal and upstairs being intimate--the sort of place where tourists' and others' memories might be made. There's also outdoor dining in good weather. Service in France is very different than in the U.S.--wait persons are generally formal--but truly "at your service"--which formality I think many Americans often mis-comprehend as rudeness. Le Fontaine is in keeping with traditional paradigms for French service, but all of the front-facing folks speak perfect English and seem to have an awareness of American expectations around these matters. I was living alone when I was in Paris and thus generally dined alone--I was always treated supremely well at F de M (it's amazing how far a "bonjour" or a "merci" will go--the French are generally not rude, they merely want a little respect for an estimable culture and a language that they rightly fear may be dying, but I digress).
It perhaps bears mentioning that F de M is owned by the same family that owns the Cafe de L'Alma on nearby Avenue Rapp. The Cafe is excellent, but lacks the magic, the je ne sais quois du Fontaine.
I'm not the world's most sophisticated French diner (nor the world's most sophisticated American diner!), so if you're looking for the trendiest, uber-hip "beautiful people" recommendations, don't put any stock in the reviews of this son of civil servants. With that qualification, I can truly say that some of the best meals of my life to date have been at Le Fontaine de Mars. read more