Okay, count me and my lovely wife among those utterly in love with this amazing restaurant. We see where some less impressed diners wonder what all the fuss is about, and I don't think we are saying it's the best restaurant out there, but I did have my best meal of 2014 last night (Christmas Eve, by the way, when many restaurants offer less & charge more).
We were told only the 4,5 or 6 course tasting menus were available but they are the most open tasting menus I have ever encountered; essentially, every item on the menu is available in various quantities depending on which menu you choose...but I digress.
Since we had only made our reservation a couple of days prior, we could only get a table in the bar but what good fortune; our lowish banquette table was cool, mid-century modern and quite comfy (Paige's banquette also had 3 big pillows against which to lean). The wait staff immediately greeted us warmly and throughout the meal danced the fine line between friendly, solicitous and super professional with great aplomb.
We opted for the 5 course menu which offers 2 choices from the first two pages of the menu (which changes seasonally), the house signature white bean soup (which has not changed in the ten years the restaurant has been open), one entree and dessert. I started with the golden heirloom beets with raw hearts of palm, Haas avocado, organic radish carpaccio, goat cheese,grapefruit & almond vinaigrette. Delicious! and the beets were imbued with more beet luciousness than I have ever encountered. Paige started with the Pacific yellowtail poke with ginger, lemongrass & organic soy mixed with compressed watermelon which blew us both away..and instead of a bed of rice as is traditional, this dish was accompanied by wavy rice crisps. Verdict: Paige wins narrowly
For my next course, I opted for the Hand Rolled Black Truffle Pappardelle Pasta with wilted spinach, summer truffle & marsala butter as I am a sucker for homemade pasta; tasty but merely very good. My (literally) better half ordered the lobster risotto which was simply the best version of this not so uncommon dish I have ever encountered. The rice achieving that magic creamy yet individual quality that all risottos aspire to, the lobster sweet and rich. Verdict: Paige wins in a landslide.
The white bean soup is spectacular and while I wished for more than the espresso cup serving (delivered by the hunky chef), Paige wisely counseled that it was so rich and full flavored that any more would be too much.
For our main courses, I opted for the scallops glazed with tamari and eastern spices, baby bok choy, organic sprouts and "forbidden rice" with a non GMO white miso-lemongrass broth...I know, quite the pretentious mouthful but the scallops were perfect, the broth deep in flavor and the greenery refreshing. Paige enjoyed the snapper served in an homage to cassoulet that was so rich, succulent and buttery (flavored with paprika and festooned with clams, Gallic garlic sausage and small white beans).Verdict; Paige wins but is also exhausted by the richness of her dish...oh, and the actual snapper was excellent in freshness and preparation.
For dessert, I had the caramel corn creme brulee with peanut brittle ice cream and nothing that description conveys just how delicious, silken, crunchy, fluffy and downright fun this dessert is...for once, the creme brulee is not the banal choice. Paige enjoyed the chocolate tripleta with passionfruit gelato that was far more interesting than my choice but not quite as satisfying. Verdict: Caleb wins.
We only sampled one cocktail, the kiwi libre, which was fun, crazy green and imbued with serious kiwi flavor but not earth moving in our exciting cocktail times. The Cremeaux rose', however, was cool, crisp and perfect throughout the night.
I love just about every design choice they have made with this space-modern, clean, intimate, raucous and louche all at the same time...and the music is both played at a reasonable volume and well edited (The Smiths & Oh Land for example). If we return to Puerto Rico, we will surely return to Marmalade. read more