As part of my DC Summer Restaurant Week circuit, I hit Officina, which proved to be a true highlight of the last seven days. While Officina certainly tends to be pricier, the Restaurant Week deal made dining at this spot in the Wharf area far more accessible--my party of three paid less than my friend who went solo for standard dinner service. Here are my thoughts on the setting, food, and service:
The Setting: The Wharf itself is a charming location that is bustling with activity and is pedestrian-friendly, though far from overwhelming. Officina has a central location among the buildings overlooking the Potomac, with a lovely terrace offering views of the hubbub below and the occasional breezy respite from the sweltering heat. The interior of the restaurant is tastefully industrial, with an open and modern floor plan. Notably, garage parking is the only reliable option if you're bringing your own vehicle, and the closest garage costs around $20 for 1.5 hours. The restaurant does not validate parking passes, so it could be more cost effective to uber!
The Food: In brief, our meal was a divine ode to southern Italian cuisine (save the protein garnish on our dish that we didn't order...a hair :/ ). We began with the crostini with ricotta, squash, lemon, and mint, which was light and airy with delicate summer flavors, but was more like a toast than a crostini as it lacked the telltale crunch. We then shared two pastas: a bucatini with pecorino, panchetta, and red onion and a gorgeous rigatoni alla norma, with eggplant, tomato, and ricotta salata. While the bucatini was excellent, the rigatoni was an absolutely delicious combination of seasonal flavors, with the eggplant and tomato truly enhancing each bite rather than acting as sideshows. Our secondis included seared trout on a bed of crunchy green beans, cooked to perfection, along with calamari stuffed with a potato and prosciutto puree and doused in a lemony squid ink sauce. We also ordered the eggplant parmesan. While I normally love grilled calamari, I concurred with the rest of my party, which found the calamari to be the least impressive of the three dishes. Surprisingly, the eggplant was absolutely lovely. Eggplant parmesan is a hard dish to destroy...but it is a similarly difficult dish to make exceptional. Officina surpassed my expectations with thin, sweet layers of the vegetable that I found satiating and comforting without the heft and carelessness of a clusmily thrown together eggplant parm. It was done thoughtfully. The perfectly pan-seared trout and green beans was another excellent dish. While the calamari was beautifully cooked, the flavor profile was off in my opinion--acidity was overwhelming the other flavors, while the puree filling the calamari itself did not really enhance the dish. It was not bad by any means, but not notable. To close our meal, my culinary companions opted for a cheese plate and zabaione (the eggy and creamy Italian classic atop layers of spongy chiffon, peach, and lavender sorbet) while I opted for tastes of their desserts and an affogato with stracciatella. The zabaione was an excellent way to punctuate our meal and capture the spirit of summertime in a dessert. The affogato also hits the spot for any espresso and gelato aficionado...what could be better than the melted chocolate shavings at the end of your interchangeably bitter and sweet concoction?
The Service: While the meal and setting were lovely, the mediocre service is what puts this place in a distinctly separate category from its cousin Masseria and other Michelin star restaurants. I want to qualify this by saying that Restaurant Week is probably fresh hell for people in the industry. However, it's also when you open your doors up to throngs of new customers, which makes it imperative to put your best foot forward on all fronts. Our server was perfectly adequate, but not a touch more. He was not very attentive to our table, though he did make a point of regularly checking in with the table in front of us and promptly running them their drinks (though they arrived ten minutes after us). He wasn't rude when he answered our questions about the menu, but he was short. We went long stretches of time without the container of tepid water at our table being refilled, and receiving an iced coffee took 25 minutes and a kind manager's intervention. It seemed like dealing with us was an imposition for him, which is a bad way to feel as a patron.
In sum, I really enjoyed my meal. It really felt like a fine, luxurious dining experience when we lingered over coffee and sopped up the thick tomato sauces with table bread--very Italy. However, I think the service we received was lacking and is incongruous with the price point of Officina during a typical week, which certainly tempers my eagerness to return anytime soon. read more