Relais Louis XIII is worth all of the hype. The food was superb, and the service was great, too. Definitely a stark contrast to the brisk and almost-inattentive service at most Parisian bistros (as it should be for the price).
I tried to make a reservation about 5 months in advance via their website. I received an email reply the next day (in English) saying that they don't make reservations until 30 days out. I ended up using the website again about 2 weeks out to make the reservation successfully. I then confirmed via email with them on two separate occasions before the meal. I was impressed with their communication, and that they reached out in English (I wrote to them in French and English).
When we showed up, they were clearly just opening. We received a lot of attention as we were the first ones seated. By the time we left, the main floor was full (their are only 6-7 tables), and we were still being waiting on as though it were just us. The chef came out to greet everyone-albeit quickly- and then returned to the kitchen to make us a truly memorable meal. We knew it would be good after the first bite of he tasty and warm "cheesy puff" they presented us with when we sat down!
We chose the "Inspiration" menu, and were rewarded with 5 (or was it 6?) courses plus an amuse bouche. The first course was "green peas three ways" and was a very tasty and delicate experiment in molecular gastronomy, complete with pea foam and gel. The second was my favorite of the night- white asparagus perfectly cooked and bathed in a bacon based Parmesan sauce, topped with an even-more-perfectly-cooked poached(?) egg. That was followed by a delicious and beautifully presented fish course, a "gin and tonic" palette cleanser, and a tasty (although least favorite) beef dish. Lastly, we were presented with no fewer than 3 dessert plates (light and perfectly plated strawberry dish, plate of gelées and pastry, and profiteroles with warm chocolate sauce). It was all absurdly delicious, and superbly presented. The wait staff was attentive without being annoying, and spoke English as we wished. The sommelier often doubled as waiter, and he paired our meal with a few different (and surprisingly affordable 15Euro) glasses of red wine. Overall, we were very pleased despite the hefty bill.
Our only wish was that we went when it was more crowded at the start. We were hesitant to have "loud"/normal volume conversation at first, since we were the only ones in there. The next two couples (also both seemingly American) are clearly feeling the same discomfort. Once a (local?) French couple settled in and the place started bustling, everyone felt more at home and we chatted freely.
I would definitely return to Le Relais Louis XIII, although I am more inclined to try something new next time I'm in Paris. It was our first two-starred meal, and it did not disappoint us. You don't celebrate your 10 year anniversary every day-so it was worth the splurge! If you can afford it, we highly recommend Relais Louis XII! read more