So, I was "convinced" by a friend to hit The Owl Cafe on the way out of town in lieu of Eli's Place (which I was quite eager to go to), which led me to be a bit judgmental of the place pulling up. The giant, neon Owl on the outside of the building is retro-quaint, and upon entering the dining area I felt like I took a step back into the 1960's - gleaming chrome trim on EVERYTHING and slick vinyl cushions on the seats completed a picture of Americana. "A" for effort here, guys. I dig it.
But we are here for the food, correct? As I was walking in, I caught sight of an enormous apple pie sitting on a counter to cool off and i immediately resolved to order a slice of it no matter how good/terrible the food was. Fortunately, the meal kicked off with the oddest thing - a small bowl of pinto beans garnished with those famous hatch green chilies that New Mexico cooks have collectively resolved to put into everything. The beans were delicious and perfectly cooked - it's easy to take boiled beans too far in one direction or the other, but these had the perfect amount of chew and the chunks of garlic, chuck and green chile flavored it wonderfully. However, the pendulum swung back the other direction with our appetizer - chips and queso. Coming from Texas, I know Queso is a humble dish, but that makes it very easy to screw up. Unfortunately, this cheese was a nuclear orange that screamed "Fresh From The Can"! Despite a few augmentations to liven it up - I detected some roasted onions and those ubiquitous green chilies again - you can't deny the lack of effort in setting a plate of bagged tortilla chips and canned cheese for that price (and believe me, we will get to the pricing).
The Owl Cafe redeemed itself in its entrée, though - the "Owlchiladas" were possibly the best green chicken enchiladas I've had in my life. Loving layered with what had to be half a chicken, crisped corn tortillas, a creamy sauce that contained (what else) hatch green chilies, and the whole thing was drenched in melted cheddar cheese. Nearly running off the plate, the rice and beans you get as a side seem almost perfunctory, but they were also delicious and homemade (I've had better refried beans, but these are easily top three). The garnish of iceberg lettuce and chopped tomatoes might be traditional, but I think it would be even better if they used a true Pico de Gallo or even just a small pile of those green chilies that permeate everything else I'd had so far. The tortilla you are given to lap up that divine sauce seems almost excessive, but it was freshly warmed and good enough to eat by itself, so it gets a pass.
I was nearly full at this point, but I was determined to get a dessert. The promise of that fresh apple pie was fulfilled when I got a gigantic slice of it a la mode. They use Granny Smith apples in their pies, so despite its size and pleasingly caramelized crust, it had a tarty bite that kept the dish from being too decadent. The vanilla ice cream was quite nice (and advertised as Blue Bunny, which I prefer anyway) and I ate the whole thing.
From a culinary perspective, the meal was great but inconsistent. For a place that seems to care about quality, that their queso and chips were so weak was nearly unforgivable. Everything except that plate screamed "homemade", from the beans to the tortilla that had such a nice char I'm sure they either make them in-house or source them from a local tortillaria. Why they would skimp on something so basic mystifies me, especially considering the final price of the meal. I split the Queso with my friend, but half an appetizer, my entrée, dessert, and a drink came out to be... Nearly $30!* For what amounts to a high-class greasy spoon, I expected the meal to top out at around half that. I will be coming back to NM in the future, but I'll make sure to have plenty of cash in hand before dining here again.
*the waitstaff was nice, and several workers came by to talk to is or give us opinions and suggestions for our meals, but the price didn't include a tip (which I did leave). By the by, there is a special place in Hell for those who don't tip your servers, whether they are good or terrible at their jobs. read more