Coming from South Louisiana, where we are known for our seafood, I was eager to try Coastal Indian cuisine, and Trishna did not disappoint. We went for the early dinner tasting menu, and while it was an enormous amount of food for the two of us, it was a wonderful experience.
The restaurant itself is quite compact, with gentle blue colors and inviting light. As the tables filled up, it did get pretty loud; but not overwhelming (not yet anyway). The staff were attentive, and also made me feel very much at home. I appreciated how our main server made me feel comfortable with the menu even though I know next to nothing about Indian food. But the real highlight for me was the sommelier, who invited me to play with my palate by making wine recommendations that were fun, perfectly paired with my preferences, and still able to complement the food (while staying highly affordable). I'd give him five stars all on his own.
Moving on to the food. I honestly had no idea what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised again and again by each dish. We started with the Koliwada Squid & Shrimps and the Nandu Varuval. In the first dish, I thought the shrimp and squid, fried and heavily seasoned, were delicious. The crust was flaky, the seafood tender (the shrimp literally melted in my mouth), and the spices were like a carnival ride for my palate. It could have just been a hit of heat (as some Cajun dishes have unfortunately become); but this felt very measured and balanced. It certainly opened up the pores and woke up my circulation; but it didn't have me rushing for water. Very manageable heat; expertly blended.
For the other dish, I must say that, as a Cajun, I've come to expect soft shell crabs to be four to five inches long, sometimes six. This one was maybe two. Little baby crab. But looking back at this enormous meal, I'm now grateful that it was so small. That said, I thought it was wonderful--especially the center of the crab, which offered an explosion of flavor. Typically you'll find the treasures of the crab there by way of fats, but this felt different somehow, as if it had been stuffed with additional spice. When that little taste bomb went off, I felt like my eyes must have doubled in size, because it literally blew my mind. I also thought it very wise that the tiny crab was paired with a zesty sauce and a generous serving of lump crab meat that was bright and cleansing. So, while this could have been a heavy dish, it ended up being a winding road of surprises that elevated the soft shell crab into a downright adventure. Really interesting and inspiring.
Next came the Hariyali Bream, which, having seen images of it on Instagram, I thought was a stuffed green pepper --- but no, it's bream covered in a green chili sauce. (Clever.) My husband thought this was the best dish yet and devoured it. I loved the hint of smokiness in the fish, and the brightness of the chili really was a lovely touch, along with the tomato. It wasn't hot or heavy, but very delicate. Completely turned the dial from fried heat to subtle smoky seduction with a touch of whimsical illusion. As for the Kasoori Turkey Tikka, it was a very solid offering and I genuinely enjoyed it; but it wasn't a standout for us.
Next came such an enormous spread, I don't even know the names of everything that ended up on the table, covering everything from basmati rice to probably the best naan I've ever had. We ordered the Chemmeen Muringa Theeyal, serving up prawns that were surprisingly sweet and delicious, as well as the Baby Aubergine Vathagal (another great dish). Looking back, I wish I would have eaten less of the papad & chutney varieties at the very beginning of the meal; but everything was so delicious, I did my best to eat as much as I could. I would recommend to anyone reading this that the tasting menu is a marathon, not a sprint---so, pace yourself.
Of course, by the time we got our desserts, we were both completely stuffed. We had chosen the Chennar Payesh and the Khubani Ki Kheer, and looking back, I wish we would have chosen an assortment of sorbets instead, especially because of my long-standing adoration of Tulsi. But I didn't really love either of these for texture reasons, so I ordered the chai and called it a night.
But dessert aside, this was an epic exploration of coastal Indian cuisine, and if I come back to London, I will certainly book here again. As someone who has spent a ridiculous amount of time working with shrimp, crab and white fish, this was an incredibly informative meal on what is possible with seafood and the pungent spices. It was also an education on Indian cuisine in ways that I never expected. And the fact that everyone working at Trishna seemed incredibly proud to be there made it feel like you were dining in someone's home, and I am so grateful for the experience. read more