The food and wine pairing were exquisite--5 stars. The duck with foie gras was cooked to perfection and the chocolate souffle was heaven in a ramekin.
Then there is the atmosphere and the service...
When I call to make the reservation the host asks me whether we have any dietary restrictions. I say "No", and he responds "we're going to have fun tonight." Memories of San Francisco restaurant Gary Denko flash through my mind.
Upon our arrival we are met by a surly white gate. I say surly because it's difficult to figure out how to get through the thing. I feel the cameras on me and almost suggest to my husband that we turn around. (We're simple country folk with a little discretionary money who like to eat really well prepared food.)
My husband finally figures out how to operate the call box and we make it through the gate. We pull up to the restaurant in our Toyota Corolla (it is very dark) and the valet greets us with "Welcome to Winvian Sir" and "Greetings Madame". I look around for a French woman but realize the valet is talking to me. I want to pull into my turtle shell out of sheer discomfort for the formality of the greeting. Doesn't Mr. Valet realize "Madame's" don't drive around in Corolla's? But then again it is very dark.
We are half an hour early so we're escorted to a grouping of faded leather chairs in front of a large fireplace with a toasty fire. My husband orders Champagne. Is he feeling a little decadent, or just trying to measure up to the "Madame"? (I don't ask.) They serve a Veuve Clicquot Brut that is crisp, light, and tastes of apricots and apples. Delicious! This makes up for the gate, the "Madame", and I forget about the bill.
At precisely the appointed hour, we are led to a small room on the second floor with three tables, a nice fireplace, hunter green walls, lots of woodwork, and an oriental rug. It feels cozy. We are the first of the three parties to arrive. After choosing the "still" water, the waitress takes our order and we request the wine pairing with our meal. We're brought an amazing sparkling wine that tastes to me like bacon - nice and chewy. Excellent. Wish I could remember the name.
In a short while we are each served a Connecticut oyster on the half shell with grated horseradish. I don't like oysters so my husband enjoys them both and finds them to be divine.
Warm bread is brought to the table with a little butter. I shouldn't eat it because I fill up fast, but I can't tolerate too much sparkle on an empty stomach!
Next we enjoy Gougeres with smoked salmon, and a white fish (Halibut?) that appears to be cooked in a pastry, but it could have been deep fried. They are both delicious.
A not-too-oaky, lovely California Chardonnay is poured with the pasta, some of which is stained black with squid ink and topped with lobster, mussels, squid and scallops. A lovely presentation and the seafood is cooked to perfection.
Next comes a glass of French Cabernet with the best dish of the evening: A healthy serving of duck cooked rare with a perfectly crisped skin. This is topped with sumptuous foie gras and is accompanied by roasted (?) or sauteed root vegetables finished with a demi-glace.
My chocolate souffle is heavenly.
Food: 5 stars. Service: 2 stars. Atmosphere: 3 stars for the decor, 1 star for the ambiance.
Altogether there are three servers, but only one of them have any personality (although two of the waiters have nice accents). He (the one with some personality) nearly drops a fork and apologies to which I respond "no worries, you're much more formal than we are". He smiles and chuckles under his breath. The timing of the food servings is satisfactory, but we have to wait eons for the bill (and by this time I desperately need to loosen my waste band). There's nothing like ending a nice meal with a detention sentence.
The room itself is cozy, but I feel like we're eating in a library. The wait staff is so quiet, when I speak I imagine a ruler wrapping on my knuckles and a glaring white-haired woman spitting "Ssshhh"! I figure the ambiance will become more relaxed when the other parties arrive, but it doesn't get any more lively - every time I say something to my husband I feel like I'm shouting into a bullhorn. I've been in white-linen restaurants before where the air sparkles with conversation and laughter, and the wait persons engage their diners. This one misses the mark. read more