Cantina Feliz, which made its debut in Fort Washington early in 2011, recently relocated to Ambler and is now snugly ensconced on town's main drag.
Evidently owner Brian Sirhal, who also purchased the building where Cantina now resides, is more than pleased with the move. According to Michael Klein's article in The Philadelphia Inquirer, the new location provides higher visibility, more private dining space, and a bar twice the size of the one at the Fort Washington location. "Just having foot traffic and being in a downtown setting is going to make a difference, I think," Mr. Sirhal noted.
Perhaps - from the owner's perspective. But take a moment to consider it from your (the diner's) point of view... The restaurant's current location is certainly in the center of things and appears to be more accessible than was the Fort Washington outpost. That sounds good, but is only partially true, as everything has a price. In this case, it's parking. Fort Washington had parking on the premises. At the Ambler location, it's metered street parking. And since the Ambler Theater is directly across the way, and there are several other restaurants in the immediate vicinity, as you can well imagine, there's plenty of competition for those primo parking spaces.
Meanwhile... Crossing the threshold, I knew immediately that I much preferred the décor at the old location... Interesting rooms, quirky colors, cozy bar, imposing mural in the entranceway, a character all its own. On the other hand, the current abode is pedestrian at best. We were seated in a rather large, bright nondescript room with a view of both the bustling bar and the semi-open kitchen. The adjacent dining area exudes about as much charm as a high school cafeteria. It's not that ambience is all... but it does help. And here, it helps not at all. In its present domicile, Cantina strikes me as the very antithesis of its former self - especially since its younger sibling, La Calaca Feliz on Philly's Fairmount Avenue, emanates such a beguilingly rustic warmth.
Parking issues and uninspiring environs notwithstanding, the relocated Cantina Feliz still has a good deal going for it. First of all, for a restaurant that had been open less than a week, and was basically filled to capacity on the day of our visit, the service was as smooth as a Japanese railroad. Since many eateries presently seem to be having great difficulty finding adequate help, this was certainly no mean feat. Then there are those simply marvelous margaritas. Of course, there are several variations on the theme - plus, a number of interesting specialty cocktails - but the house version, Feliz Margarita, which is a few dollars less than the souped-up renditions, will do just fine.
But the big draw here is the food: a vibrantly fresh, delightfully understated au courant take on traditional Mexican cuisine. I have dined at the restaurant's former location in Fort Washington on numerous occasions... ditto its Fairmount outpost... and now its current domicile in Ambler... and I have yet to be disappointed.
And the only way to begin here is with the Guacamole Traditional. Mashed to order with a blending of onion and jalapeño in a lava rock molcajete, the result is rich and creamy with a touch of heat, yet with just enough old-fashioned lumps and bumps to maintain that rustic south-of-the-border made-from-scratch integrity. The accompanying chips are incomparably crisp, and the downright sensual salsa is lethal enough to set fire to your unsuspecting nether regions. Don't say I didn't warn you.
Forget the Entradas (entrées), as they are incredibly limited (3 to be precise). Instead, stick with the Tacos, which are really the name of the game. My dining partner headed straight for the Baja Fish Tacos while I zeroed in on the Buffalo Cauliflower. The perfectly roasted florets were companioned by zippy Valentina buffalo sauce, chipotle ranch slaw, avocado, and blue cheese crema. The taste buds definitely stood up and took notice. Fabulous.
Equally recommendable, I should add, are the Chicken Tinga Tacos, a delicious combo of chipotle pulled chicken, pickled red cabbage, queso fresco (white cheese), and crema. Unfortunately, as of this writing, to be found only at the Fairmount location. However, should you find yourself dining there, or should they suddenly put in a guest appearance on the Ambler menu, don't be at all shy about placing your order.
Wine and beer options are quite limited. On the other hand, the impressive list of tequilas - including several tequila flights - should keep you happy. read more