While its gorgeous, understated space and excellent service are calming like its namesake, Estuary's food is a tidal wave of dazzling flavors, beautiful presentations, and healthful compositions all creatively composed to leave a wake of culinary memories beckoning another visit. The food is fancy and contemporary takes on Chesapeake-inspired New American by Chefs/Owners Bryan and Michael Voltaggio and Chef de Cuisine Dan Kennedy.
With driving into DC becoming increasingly difficult due to worsening traffic (Metro delays also abound due to construction), my dining companion and I have been forced to choose more wisely than before, and Estuary is one that is easily worth the trek into the ritzy City Center neighborhood. For our first visit, we went for brunch and thoroughly loved it. Our enthusiastic server Jeanine and team helped made our brunch pure culinary joy each bite of the way! Below are what we ordered:
LA COLOMBE COFFEE with CHOCOLATE CHIP BISCOTTI
Perfectly-brewed, our coffee stayed fresh and hot to the last drop in our small thermos. The rustic-textured biscotti provided a pleasant, barely-sweet contrast between sips of the delicious medium-roast coffee.
MARYLAND CRAB ROLL
Starring a decadently buttery brioche, the lightly dressed lump crab salad was garnished with a pretty ice plant and crab-shaped old bay chips. The brioche is so good that it would be equally awesome simply with avocados and chilies.
CHICKEN FRIED QUAIL with YEAST WAFFLES, QUAIL EGGS, SORGHUM SAMBAL
While fried chicken+waffles is justifiably all the rage these days, none have stood out quite so much as this flawless dish. The quail was perfectly rendered and fried with a crunchy batter that is perfectly seasoned and textured, and the waffle was delicately savory and moist. Tying it all together were the picturesque 6 over-easy eggs, spicy sambal, and refreshing garnishes of fennel fronds and scallion. Even without the eggs or sambal, this usually dry dish was unbelievably perfect in having just enough moisture without the need for a thick sauce. The waffle is best in class, and dare we say, the quail is the best fried bird! Absolute must-order dish!
BENNE SEED & TOGARSHI-CRUSTED ATLANTIC COD with CUTTLEFISH & ENOKI MUSHROOMS over COD BONE TONKOTSU RAMEN BROTH
Even with its flaw (broth was salty and undefined due to being too complex), this was still a superb dish because of how silky the cod was prepared alongside the tender cuttlefish and complementing textures of enoki (blanched, fried). If the broth is improved, this dish has potential to be absolutely elite!
"KEY LIME PIE" of COCONUT SORBET in CHOCOLATE DOME sitting on PEANUT BUTTER SHELL over THAI BASIL, BROWN BUTTER MERINGUE, and LIME CURD with HIBISCUS COULIS
Deconstructed in presentation, its multitude of flavors resulted in a harmonious and innovative rendition that was gently sweet, floral, tart, nutty, creamy, and firm. While a chocolate mint or lemon balm in lieu of the basil may further heighten this dish, it is generously portioned and like enjoying a few desserts in one multi-level tower!
Having dined previously at Chef Bryan's other restaurants, from flagship VOLT back in 2010 to Range and Family Meal in following years, Estuary reflects his evolving growth as a chef/restaurateur. While our first visit to VOLT was underwhelming, Family Meal was solid (if unmemorable), Range was strong under Chefs Mattie McGhee and Romeo Tivoli, and now, Estuary is the best of the bunch!
All in all, while certainly fancy in its scope and ambiance (ceiling-to-floor windows brings in lots of natural light to accent the elegant tables, tableware, and setting), Estuary is reasonably-priced considering its quality, execution, and feeling of satisfaction (particularly the entrées) while refreshed and energized. Just note that the restaurant is on the 3rd floor of the classy new Conrad Hotel; take the elevator to the right upon entering the main lobby entrance. We can't wait to return for the Quail & Waffles as well as trying something new! read more