It's always difficult to rate restaurants like Estuary, because there are so many elements to dining, and to grade them on a 5 star scale is somewhat unforgiving and generally too poor in fidelity to make serious judgements. I'll give Estuary a 5 because I think it's a great place and worth trying, but I'll also try to include some critiques.
I think the first thing to understand is that Estuary is a hotel restaurant - more specifically, the restaurant for DC's Conrad hotel. Therefore, unlike a standalone restaurant with its own storefront, Estuary is very much integrated into the hotel. This was a bit of a shock to me, as I have eaten at Volt, Family Meal, etc. and there is a stronger sense of individuality. You basically enter Estuary from the third floor lobby (which in of itself has to be appreciated for its architecture and its spare, chain-mail curtained decor.) There is no door to the restaurant or a big fancy sign - just a divider that forms the rear of the bar. You turn left and a fairly non-descript table is where the maitre'd is located. This continuous conjoining of spaces was a little jarring to me - and very different from other restaurants.
The second thing to understand is that Estuary is pumping a lot of emphasis into the "stuff" that makes up the restaurant. For example, the coasters - normally paper napkins at most places are stitched, high-count fabric. The kitchen is built around a Molteni range, which reminds me of a more sedate version of the fiery "Open Hearth" concept found in Jeremiah Langhorne's "The Dabney." The placemats are padded leather. The utensils rest on a brushed metal block to separate them from the table. The meat knives are made by Forge Laguiole with carbon fiber scales, an option that I didn't even know existed. The custom-printed, thick fabric napkins are from Garnier Thiebaut. The menus are basic paper affairs, with metallic print enscribed with Estuary's locavore Chesapeake Bay theme.
Third is a realization that I have made with most restaurants like Estuary: Dining at the restaurant is partly an exercise in learning about it and what it has to offer. This is more than obvious when it comes to the food. For example, it's difficult to describe the two amuse-bouche that came before the appetizer. The most pedestrian description I can give is that they were breadsticks, croissants stuffed with jelly, and some kind of crisp, yet melt-in-your-mouth, large ultra-thin rice-cake-ish thing covered with edible flowers and some kind of powder, along with a dipping...sauce? If the intent was to start with something virtually indescribable, then they succeeded. The taste, which was good, was almost secondary to the initial surprise and the pop-in-your-mouth texture. I don't know for sure, but I'm almost convinced that this was meant in part to throw us a bit off balance as diners. As if to tell us, "You think you know everything, but you really don't..."
We ordered the crab roll, which seems to vary in presentation from photo to photo. Ours sadly did not come with flowers, but did have the signature crab-shaped crackers. It had a surprisingly sweet flavor and good flake.
My wife ordered the Hangar Steak. I ordered the Lamb Pastrami.
Note: This is not food you shovel down like so much Chipotle or Moby Dick. Take your time with this stuff. My wife wasn't a particularly big fan of the grits (which were too "genuinely gritty" for her. They were placed on the dish by the server at the table from a miniature stainless pot) or the bone marrow and shallots on the side, but she considered the hangar steak itself delicious.
The Lamb Pastrami was quite a good surprise - a generous cut of lamb belly (which I have never had) and the loin which were also cooked to my taste. The dish came with a large black sea-salt covered cracker, the purpose of which was mystifying to me. It found its purpose as a foundation for the bone marrow I was gifted.
Therefore, ask questions. You will have to ask "what is this?" and "how do I eat this?" Learn and then participate.
On word of caution: The Peach Tea Cheesecake was our chosen dessert and it was probably too unusual for my wife. The initial shock came with the intentionally missing part of the edible covering. She was expecting "The Cheesecake Factory" and got a very light whipped dessert topped with a little bit of ice cream. She loved the nuts and small peaches, however. There is a hilarious review that described this dessert as too heavily deconstructed and in some ways, I agree. If, as a diner, you know your taste is more traditional, then please try the other choices!
The amuse-bouche that came with the check were absolutely delicious. The chocolate was, of course, textured just go that you could detect the cacao powder melt in your mouth, but not so much that it just disappeared. The other was almost like a candied corn bread...again difficult to describe but delightful. read more