It was our 26th anniversary. We had no dinner reservations, no international cell phone policy for research or navigation, and no plan other than to get lost for a few hours on the streets of Paris.
We started wandering in the Latin Quarter and passed many cute cafes, some with live music, but we kept walking because if chicken nuggets are on the menu it's too touristy for me. We made it to the Saint Germaine district and were about to turn around when I happened to glance left, down an alleyway so small that I may have missed it if I blinked. I saw twinkle lights and a cobblestone street too narrow and bumpy for anything but pedestrians. We walked the length of it, passing many adorable places with fun crowds drinking and talking or couples kissing. But I had my eye on the empty one - the one with white table cloths and waiters in tuxedos. We had our choice of any table on the patio, so I selected one with the perfect vantage point for watching people and admiring architecture. Within minutes, the patio was full and lively, a slightly later dinner crowd apparently.
Our waiter looked like my son but with a curled-tip mustache. He offered English menus and spoke easily with us, knowing very limited French. He offered that we begin our celebration with champagne (which sounded like a gift but ended up on our bill). We then selected an affordable but delectable bottle of red wine from the Burgundy area which we tend to like. At this point, we read inside the menu the history of the restaurant. Astonishingly, we'd stumbled into the oldest cafe in Paris (1686), where the likes of Voltaire and Napoleon had dined!!!!! And the prices were surprisingly low. I toasted to that!
Next, it was on to the starters, French onion soup as beautiful as you'd imagine and, for me, a much-too-cheesy version of French mac & cheese, part of the prix-fixe menu. Then, it was traditional steak with béarnaise sauce for him and vegetarian risotto for me (not the best pairing with the pasta starter - my poor choice). We sent the steak back because it was far too overcooked though they argued with us on that point.
We ended with an orange soufflé that sounded better than it was and an espresso with some sort of almond cookie dome.
After dinner, I went to the ladies room inside the restaurant up the grand staircase past Napoleon's hat. It was only then that I realized that hundreds of guests - with reservations I'm sure - in their finest dinner apparel were seated inside the huge, lavish restaurant. We were lucky. I'd still pick the more laid-back, aesthetic patio with buskers and musicians and lovely French people chatting at elbow's length, all happy to be here lingering for hours and hours.
On the whole, though the food was only okay, the experience could not have been more romantic or memorable on our anniversary in Paris! read more