Located on Wayne's "Restaurant Row," the Blue Elephant is the newest entry in the Win Signature stable, a restaurant group owned by Win and Sutida Somboonsong. Their other culinary outposts include Mikado Thai Pepper in Ardmore, Teikoku in Newtown Square, Azie, in Villanova & Media, and the Blue Elephant in Pottstown.
Like its elder sibling, Wayne's Blue Elephant majors in Asian fusion cuisine, which is basically Italian-Thai with some Japanese influences thrown in for good measure. As I mentioned in my review of the Pottstown outpost several years ago, this all sounds good... But, once again, proper execution - or, more specifically, the lack thereof - proves to be the problem. A number of those menu items certainly look intriguing - in print. Once they hit the table, however, it's back to cold, cruel reality. For the most part, the items we've sampled in several visits have been feasts for neither the eye, nor the palate.
But let's begin on a positive note...My dining partner's preprandial cocktail - the Autumn Mule - turned out to be the highlight of a recent evening's visit. An unlikely combo of vodka, green cardamom, chai (a spiced tea beverage that originated in India and is made by steeping black tea with milk and spices), black peppercorn, cranberry juice, and yuzu (citrus juice), it was just unusual enough to tantalize the taste buds and stimulate the appetite,
If I had to pick a high point foodwise, my nod would undoubtedly go to our shared starter, the Miso Chicken Lettuce Cup. Ground chicken was wok-sautéed with miso (soy bean paste) and then served with zippy sriracha (a hot sauce made from a paste consisting of chili peppers, distilled vinegar, pickled garlic, sugar, and salt) and wafer-thin slices of pickled ginger. As you would undoubtedly suspect, there was the possibility of heat aplenty here. Fortunately, the hot stuff comes in a mini ramekin and may be applied at the individual diner's discretion. And while I wouldn't go so far as to call the dish exceptional, it was, on the whole, quite good.
With the coming of the entrées, however, things proceeded downhill at the speed of light. Consider my dining partner's Eggplant Teriyaki as exhibit A. Panko breaded Italian eggplant, sweet miso, garlic sautéed green beans, and short grain white rice... sounded good. So good, in fact, that I almost ordered it myself. What materialized, however, was a major disappointment. First of all, the presentation: three big clumps just sitting there. About as much savoir faire as you would expect to find at the local greasy spoon. Secondly, the meaning of the term teriyaki refers to a dish - meat, fish, or vegetable - that is grilled or broiled after being soaked in a seasoned soy sauce marinade. Any remnants of such a marinade, however, were certainly conspicuous by their absence, as the above-mentioned constituents were as Bland - with a capital B - as they looked. Anything even approximating flavor was purely coincidental. Needless to say, my dining partner was significantly less than pleased.
And I felt precisely the same way about my Drunken Noodles (so named because it was thought that this spicy Thai dish should be consumed with a cold beer). Stir-fried wide noodles are combined with a variety of spices, which tend to vary according to individual recipes. There are, however, certain inclusions that are considered de rigueur, such as Thai basil, vinegar, chili peppers, and peppercorns. In the Thai culinary casebook, this is a relatively simple dish... unfortunately, the kitchen still managed to muck it up. First of all, the noodles had a pronounced and offputtingly slimy consistency. I have enjoyed this dish on numerous occasions in a variety of restaurants, and this is the first time I have ever encountered anything quite so unappealing. And, as if to add insult to injury, the chicken I elected to add to the presentation was terribly dry and overcooked... Not the kitchen's finest hour.
The Bottom Line: Wayne's Blue Elephant promises much; but, quite annoyingly, in my opinion, fails to deliver the goods. And, once again, like its elder sibling in Pottstown, the restaurant's reach has apparently exceeded its grasp. read more