A spin-off of the legendary Cooper's BBQ in Llano, Opie's is a place I've been wanting to try for a while now. After a healthy portion of brisket and potato salad, I think the student doesn't top the master, but it was a respectable showing and a damn fine meal.
It's not a short drive to Spicewood, so I was hoping it would be worth it. You can't miss the large building on the side of the road, which is new and pleasantly decorated. First off, the odd thing about Opie's is the choke point at entryway. The meats are kept in a warmer right as you enter which is designed to look like a smoker, but more closely resembles a coffin. The girl will creak open the coffin and you can choose your meats. I get they are following the Cooper's model of serving meat directly out of a pit, but kept inside this large, modern dining area it just feels contrived. Also, since the warmer is right at the doorway, it creates a bottleneck and a queue of people can quickly build up behind it causing you be hanging out the front door unable to get in the restaurant. Totally unnecessary.
There is a pretty wide choice of sides and especially desserts - there are about 10 different types of cakes and cobblers. Somebody clearly has a sweet tooth here. If I weren't about to gorge myself on meat, I might think about it.
We ordered a pound of moist brisket, jalapeno & cheese sausage, potato salad, and a helping of the free pinto beans for a total of $20. The brisket is cooked to be extremely tender. There is a nice black bark with a thin red smoke ring, and it falls apart on the fork. On the down side, it was extremely greasy and I thought somewhat under-seasoned. I didn't taste much of a rub on the meat - just the mesquite smoke flavor. These are minor complaints though - this is still very good brisket and nothing I'd ever be sad about eating.
The sausage was really, really excellent. It has just the right amount of heat to give your lips a light burn, and the melty cheese compliments the sausage perfectly. All you need is a half-link to be satisfied and it's a nice pop of flavor and spice to the meal.
The BBQ sauce is a pungent red vinegar style similar to Cooper's, but even better. It has notes of pepper, smoke, onions, and a kick of vinegar. It brings a great zing to all the meat - one of the best sauces I've tried anywhere.
The potato salad was unfortunately terrible. The potatoes were semi-hard and the mayo/mustard combination was an unpleasant gooey consistency and flavor. I threw it out. The pinto beans were pretty good but they were under-seasoned. A little pepper and salt would go a long way here! I appreciated the complimentary status, but they don't stand up to Cooper's pinto bean perfection.
I ordered enough brisket to take home with me for the next day, and when I reheated the leftovers in a microwave, it was oddly even better. Perhaps without the excess grease the meat tasted so much better and I was ooh-ing and ahh-ing and wondering what I ever complained about on the previous day. It was damned good. So just a thought - if you're looking to bring brisket to an event or a party and want a meat that travels well - this place is it.
Altogether it was a pretty tasty if not perfect meal. Definitely worth a stop for some tender and expertly smoked meats. read more