A very good restaurant that deserves 5 stars for effort and execution. More of a world tour than a world class experience though.
First off, the food was much better than last time with no misses. I almost ordered the pot roast again to see if I got unlucky, but maybe next time. Everything we ordered was between good and great, if not a bit confusing. Let me explain.
One thing I noticed when I left is that they bill themselves as a "French-inspired menu in a cozy, rustic-chic vintage carriage house." This was a huge surprise to me and did not capture what I was seeing on the menu. Then I looked up the chef's background and it all became very clear!! He cut his teeth under Boulud. Daniel is one of my all time favorite's and I often reference as some of the best service and execution I've ever seen. That training really shines at S&S! We sat inside this time and the kitchen is very well run.
However, the menu composition and flavors are where I get confused. Just like at Demi, the food is a world tour of fusions and rustic dishes. There is absolutely no focus or theme. Each dish is it's own thing that has nothing to with the next. I will admit, that I love it though. It's like a tour of NYC dining (if a bit outdated) and his execution is the best in town. If only it was billed as such, then I wouldn't have had to go here twice and Demi once just to figure that out. Also, his use of flavors seems off, but maybe with this perspective it would be more palatable. For this one, I will go though each dish to explain my thoughts.
Bread: Still love fresh bread but this time was slightly under. Still much appreciated and the butter is delicious. Great with soup.
THEME: Sure, French rustic.
Hamachi: If I didn't have the best crudo of my life last week (Colita) then I would probably rave about this more. It's great and fresh and the fish was excellently prepared. The acid (lime?), pepper and scallion is a great combo. I recommend this. Just looked up the pepper and wow, the habanero is the best flavored pepper IMO and this is a heatless one?! Cool.
THEME: South American? Caribbean?
Tartare: This is my favorite dish of the night. The crackers are there, but don't get in the way. The flavor and acid are spot on! I would go back for this dish. THEME: Bobby Flay SW American?
Carrot Soup: The soup we had in the summer was excellent, while this time it was probably the weakest dish of the night. It was pretty, executed perfectly and they split it for the two of us, which is A+ service. However, other than carrot, it was one note: Ginger. And not even a balanced ginger flavor with some heat, just lots of well cooked ginger. We make ginger tea a lot and this is what it tastes like when you boil ginger for a long time. I have to assume there were other ingredients, but they did not come through at all. Great way to finish the bread though.
THEME: Carrot soup is French, but something makes me want to say ginger carrot is more British? I think we can say this one was on theme, maybe. Will give this one to Gordon Ramsey.
Cappelletti: Again, another really cool ingredient, the Koginut! This is part of the "Italian" menu. I was telling my wife that the Nero is really well reviewed and she said to me "maybe this is a pasta place?". Anyways, this was not the most exciting dish, but was so comforting and delicious.
THEME: Blue Hill Rustic American Italian.
Pork Chop: The pork was cooked perfectly. Some of the fatty bits were the best bites of pork chop I've ever had. The flavors were big too! For me, this is a home run combination - the dish was big, flavorful, meaty and interesting! I also thought crabapples were not really edible. Were these pickled or something maybe? While I loved the dish, the flavors did not really meld together. The sweet tamarind BBQ and the funky curry tasted like a weird tour of Asia, but it was still fun and different and well plated. My wife was eating the cappelletti as her main and these 2 dishes could not be more different.
THEME: Jean Georges American plus more Asian flavors cause why not.
Now that I have been in MN for a while, I can put some perspective on this place. I had heard from many people that this was the best non-tasting menu restaurant in town, which in some ways is true. The execution, drinks, design and service are all world class. However, the lack of personality will always hold this place (And Demi) back from being one of the top places in town. Trying to master every flavor profile of every food theme is impossible.
Now that I understand this, Demi and S&S are great places to go and pretend you're at the best restaurants around the world. These are crowd pleaser places for the wealthy with fun menus that would be perfectly suited for hotel chains like the W. This would also make sense as a super club in Montreal where it's more about the scene. But ultimately, it also make sense in a medium sized city. read more