NYC is cursed with awful Thai food. Our Thai food are Thai dishes cooked by Chinese chefs in peanut oil that comes out as defacto Chinese food with Thai names. For example, you want pad see ew? Nope, it's chow fun!
Erawan is refreshingly different. Don't get me wrong -- the best Thai food in NYC is still the Thai food that I cook in my own kitchen, and I wouldn't call Erawan's food "strongly Thai-flavored", however, the food is delicious, is served with aesthetic, and the restaurant is enjoyable. For example, I do see lemon grass stalks in some of the food, but I simply don't *taste* the lemongrass. I don't *taste* the nam pla. I don't *taste* the lime leaves. Yet, the food is still good without being reminiscent of Chinese fusion.
You still won't get the lime-salt interplay of Thai restaurants in Japan or California, but you know what? I like this place. It's good food.
The outside of the restaurant looks a little like a Hawaiian tiki luau, and is somewhat discongruous with the more traditional Thai decour inside. It's pretty, and I appreciate the fact that there was room for our baby stroller. The service was attentive but not overbearing.
The dinner menu is slightly expensive for what it is, but lunch is reasonable.
-+= Soups =+-
Tom yum soup (with shrimp): B
Pretty standard for NYC. Too sweet. Not enough fish sauce. Not enough lemongrass (was there any lemongrass?!?). I think the shrimp was slightly overcooked.
Tom Kha Soup (with chicken): B-
Too sweet. Not enough nam pla. As with all tom kha soup in NYC, disappointing. I saw lemon grass stalks, but I couldn't taste lemon grass. Too watery. Still, I'm giving it B- because this is just like all the other tom kha soup I've had in NYC.
-+= Appetizers =+-
Curry Puff: A
Surprisingly large! I was expecting a tiny puff pastry and it turned out to be meat patty sized. The crust is golden and gossamer. The inside is somewhat lightly curried. It comes with a sweetish dipping sauce which was much thicker than expected. Good comfort food!
Jeeb Pu (Steamed Crab): C
An obviously frozen shumai. Mostly flavorless.
Baby Back Ribs: A
Nice charring on these ribs, and they were very soft and juicy. Erawan either marinates this meat beforehand or they're slow cooked. Either way, I highly recommend this appetizer for grilled meat lovers.
Shrimp Wasabi: B+
Battered shrimp and (I think) poblano chili peppers. I was a little surprised they didn't taste like wasabi until I noticed the dipping sauce. The dipping sauce is wasabi flavored, but not hot. It has the essence and aroma of wasabi without the heat.
Moo Ping: A-
This is satay: flat strips of meat on a thin skewer. The pork was extremely soft and juicy. It was obviously marinated, judging by its tenderness and vibrant flavor.
-+= Dishes =+-
Petd Num Daeng: A-
Duck was crispy and flavorful without being overly greasy. The duck would've scored my most coveted A+ rating except for two things: 1) the red curry was very good, but not great, and 2) the dish needed MUCH more red curry sauce. The red curry obviously didn't have galangal or kafir lime leaves, which I see as being absolutely necessary for truly great Thai curries. Additionally, I was given a pitiful amount of red curry sauce. The dish needed a lot more curry. However, the duck was good enough to propel this dish forward to an A- rating.
Pad Thai (beef): B-
I have never had a satisfactory pad thai on the east coast, and this was no exception. This pad thai, like all the others (except mine!) lacks any flavors that should be present in pad thai. But I'll tell you what. I brought some pad thai home in a doggy bag and ate it the next day. While it was warming, I splashed a bunch of nam pla into it. It was still lacking a lot of Thai flavors, but the nam pla made a HUGE difference. It was actually quite good. I think they don't put shrimp paste and nam pla into the dish because the American palette likes blander things. Too bad. Because it does make the dish come alive.
Pad See Ew: B
Delicious, but more of less like all the pad see ew in NYC. The sauce should've been thicker to distinguish it from chow fun, and I don't remember seeing egg, which is another difference between pad see ew and chow fun.
Kaeng Ped (with beef): B
Not very hot, but that's not why it gets a B. The menu says the dish is cooked with kaffir lime leaves, but I couldn't taste it. A good red curry should have an almost soapy lemony overtone and I couldn't detect even a trace amount of lemongrass and lime leaves. I would've liked it to be more fishy. As with most of the other dishes, not really traditional Thai flavoring, but still very good.
Pla Bronzino: B+
A whole fish, and actually quite good. The fish was cooked well -- it was charred while still being juicy and tender. I would've liked a little more seasoning to give the fish more vibrancy, but delicious nevertheless. read more