Wow, this is a first. I didn't expect to be gaslit at a Korean joint so soon after opening, and for the wrong reasons.
When it came to Korean comfort food, I stay away from the 'cue or any of their spicier concoctions - partly because my GI tract doesn't handle them well, but also because piling on spices disguise off-flavors. I find joy in fresh ingredients and deep, rich flavors. Comfort food like hottheok (crispy brown sugar filled pancakes), sujaebi (pasta soup served in a flavorful broth), or gukbap (soup served with rice and accompaniments on the side), which are simple but not easy to get right, which has a satisfying flavor without piling on the chiles. The closest freshly made-to-order Hottheok is at Hodo Kwaja in Toronto's Koreatown. Sujaebi is served at a few places in Auburndale - like Arirang or Daesung. As for Gukbap, the only game in town is Paksanbal Baps - a beef bone soup served with meat, glass noodles, mushrooms and banchan on the side - spicy or non-spicy is your only choice out of a menu of exactly one item. The ajimma there claimed a recipe passed down for at least 3 generations and at least 6 hours of prep time.
So, Naju Gomtang is here to try and give the little old lady at Parksanbal babs a run for her soup making money, but will it work? Well, the menu says that the soup will be less milky (since no bones were used), and it's made for hours on end, possibly longer. So there is a bit of a backstory with Naju Gomtang - Naju used to house a slaughterhouse for the Japanese colonizers of Korea. The good cuts goes into cans for army rations, the pelts and hide were made into army boots and belts, the locals end up with whatever leftover, and just like any cherished food items born out of profound poverty, you try to make do with what you have. Toss the crap bits into a constantly manned cauldron, then turn it into an never-ending soup - keep skimming the gamey fat off the top and throw the rice in to bulk the dish up. Eventually the flavors meld and you got yourself a highly nutritious and deeply satisfying soup. So according to a writeup done by Michelin (the Gourmand folks) - this was the origin of the soup. And according to the menu itself, adding some spicy sour juice from the kimchi will enhance the flavor further.
So when I got my serving of the Naju special (20 bucks) several things went through my head. First, the cabbage and radish kimchi seems more sour than usual. Then there is the soup, which tastes odd - the beefiness isn't quite there, and I distinctly caught something off-putting...sour notes and this anchovy-like flavor. Considering that gomtang suppsed to use soup soy rather than sea salt for flavoring, I was wondering if their soup soy had some anchovy extract (which is used sometime in seafood sujebi soups), and why this tastes...a little bit fermented - like there is this funk on the broth. Then I caught the passage on the menu about adding some pickle juice into the soup on the menu and an LED bulb went off in my head. Adding some kimchi juice into the bowl did somehow made it better - the sourness complemented the soup and it became much more palatable. The older Korean family sitting near us seemed to enjoy theirs, slurping it down with serious aplomb.
Hmmm...if Naju Gomtang was supposed to originate from humble roots, then maybe it's supposed to have a slightly sour flavor, much like how Budae Jigae was a poverty food born out of spam and beans bartered from American military bases, combined with sour expired kimchi? In that case, maybe it was supposed to taste like that. But here's the thing. During my research the Michelin article never talked about the slightly sour flavor profile, and the English language writeups of Naju style Gomtang restaurants in Seoul never mentioned it either.
So what the heck is going on? Is it supposed to be this way? Either ways I felt like I was being gaslit, and to be honest...you can add kimchi juice into the Park Sanbal gukbap and it'll taste much better. I am not sure if I really enjoyed it even with the kimchi juice and I definitely did not without. I didn't find it to my satisfaction. The missus had the Jajangmyeon - she said it was okay but there are better examples out there. The pajeon scallion pancake is actually a good one, crispy light and very well executed, but that's like going to Mickey D's, hating the burgers and only enjoying the fries...not a great reason to visit. Daesung on 162nd also make an equally good pajeon. Service is okay with their ajimmas and the restrooms are reasonably clean. Credit cards are accepted. Not sure if I'll return for another try, though. read more