If you ask any foodie that knows his/her way around Portland, chances are they'll point you to either Podnah's or Matt's if you're looking for good barbecue in the Rose City.
Although both Podnah's and Matt's pride themselves for bringing Authentic Texas-style BBQ to the PNW, there are some salient differences between the two establishments. I can say with about 88% confidence that whereas Podnah's seems to be inspired by the East Texas style BBQ (famous examples include Stanley's Famous Pit BBQ in Tyler, and Bodacious BBQ in Longview) whereas Matt's definitely stays true to the more hyped up Central Texas style of BBQ (see, e.g., Franklin's, Salt Lick, Cooper's).
I only discovered barbecue and started appreciating it for what it is after I left the great state of Texas, but to give you a quick overview of the difference between the two styles: East Texas style tends to be cooked and smoked for longer than most of its Texan counterparts, so the texture of the meat is inordinately soft. If you order ribs at an East Texas BBQ joint, the telltale sign that the establishment knows what they're doing is if the meat just slides off the bone the moment you grab it to place it closer to your face. The meat also has kind of a homely marinara kind of undertone to it because most places seem to marinate it some sort of tomato base and they mostly smoke the meat with hickory, which tends to imbue the meat with a sweet, candy-bacon type flavor.
The hallmark of the Central Texas style, or so I am told, is that it is cooked with indirect heat (i.e. in a smoker), usually with a dry rub consisting at the minimum of salt and black pepper, with varying degrees of spices added to the rub depending on where you go. Practitioners of the Central Texas style also seem to favor using wood that accentuate the meat with a thick smoky/nutty flavor and color--most Central Texas BBQ joints routinely use Oak and Pecan (or a combination of both) and sometimes Mesquite.
Central Texas BBQ joints also urge that you try the meat by itself before drowning it in sauce as the end result is usually nuanced with all the subtle flavors from the wood, and the minimal salt/pepper rub accentuates the flavor of the meat that's been sweating and cooking in its own juice (more readily than a direct fire/smoke method of cooking) from the indirect fire.
Podnah's was a faithful representation of the East Texas style in my mind, due to the fact that the flavors were deftly executed (meat melting in mouth, light sweet-ish flavor tailor-made to be drowned in an array of sauces) but the tomato marinade gave it that auspiciously "home-cooked" flavor to it. Because of that small accentuation, the food at Podnah's makes you think maybe, just maybe, you could recreate something similar at home if only you had a firepit to cook 8-10lb slabs of meat for long hours without setting off the smoke alarm.
Matt's in contrast, set off all sorts of memories of Austin and San Antonio. The meat was definitely pepper heavy in terms of the flavor by itself--I think they may have used whole peppercorn to coat the outside as the flavor expresses itself so vividly both on the surface and within the inside layers of the meat. The meat is tender, but not so soft to the point of being mush; the salt brings out just enough of the innate qualities of the meat that you essentially don't need any sauce to garnish the meat. Unlike your run-of-the-mill BBQ restaurants which offer you varying degrees of BBQ sauces based on spice level, tangy-ness, etc., Matt's simply gives you a small cup of sauce as if to say "you can use this if you want, but we're pretty sure you won't need it." I'm inclined to agree with Matt on this one.
The Beef Ribs were definitely worth coming up to Portland on the weekend for; unlike the brisket where you get a little bit of chewy on the tips and just soft tenderness throughout, the ribs have a nice textural contrast between the connective fiber and the actual meat once you push the bone out of the way.
The pecan did wonders for the pork belly; imagine if you had fluffy, juicy pork bulgogi except with no marinade and that's what Matt's smoked pork belly tastes like. Absolutely no complaints about the jalapeno cheddar sausage, either.
Kinda wish this place was open late so I can stumble here drunk and get one of their chopped brisket or pork belly tacos after dark. read more