I've been a regular customer at Parm since it opened in June 2015, and after all these years, it…read moreremains one of my reliable downtown spots for satisfying Italian-American food.
My most recent visit was for happy hour on a rainy Thursday in late August. Despite the torrential rain, the bar area was completely full by 5 p.m.--always a good sign. The atmosphere was lively, the food was satisfying as usual, and the service was prompt and friendly.
There is, however, one downside: the noise level. Parm can get loud--really loud. The marble bar and casual, diner-like interior create a lively atmosphere, but conversation can become difficult once the restaurant fills up.
The Food
Parm specializes in the kind of Italian-American food that is familiar, nostalgic, and, when done well, extremely satisfying. The Chicken Parm is the obvious signature: crisp, generously portioned, and covered with tomato sauce and melted cheese. It doesn't try to reinvent chicken Parmesan; it simply delivers the classic New York version people come to Parm expecting.
The Meatball Parm is another standout, while the pasta dishes provide a connection to the restaurant's more famous sibling, Carbone. And don't overlook the sandwiches. Parm began as a sandwich-focused concept, and its Italian-American heroes remain an important part of its identity.
The food isn't particularly experimental--and that's part of the appeal. Parm knows exactly what it is and doesn't try to be something it's not.
The History
Parm has an interesting pedigree. The restaurant grew out of Torrisi Italian Specialties in Little Italy, founded by Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi. What began partly as a sandwich operation eventually evolved into Parm, with the first standalone location opening on Mulberry Street in 2011.
The Battery Park City restaurant was the third Parm, following the original Mulberry Street location and the Upper West Side. From the beginning, Parm was conceived as the more casual and accessible counterpart to the group's more ambitious restaurants--a place serving the Italian-American food Carbone and Torrisi grew up eating.
Today, Parm is part of Major Food Group, whose principals include Carbone, Torrisi, and Jeff Zalaznick. The group is also responsible for restaurants such as Carbone and Sadelle's.
That connection is worth knowing because Parm can be thought of as the casual, neighborhood-friendly side of the Carbone/Torrisi restaurant world. You get many of the same Italian-American influences without the formality, price, or reservation challenges associated with Carbone.
The Atmosphere
Parm's interior has a classic, casual New York feel, with a marble bar and diner-inspired design. It's energetic rather than elegant, making it particularly well suited to a casual lunch, happy hour, or uncomplicated dinner.
The trade-off is the volume. When Parm is busy, it is very busy--and very loud.
My Bottom Line
After more than a decade of visits, Parm remains a restaurant I'm happy to return to. It offers good Italian-American food, friendly and efficient service, and a lively New York atmosphere.
It isn't a destination restaurant in the same league as Carbone, nor is it trying to be. What Parm does particularly well is provide dependable, satisfying comfort food in a casual setting.
For me, that's enough to keep coming back.