For those of us lingering somewhere between discerning novice and connoisseur, finding a sushi restaurant that we really love can be a challenge. We are not so ignorant as to consume the poor quality fare from less trustworthy establishments, yet perhaps not so refined in our taste to truly appreciate those rare master works from top sushi chefs. BUT...we do know good sushi when we taste it. Personally, I find myself at a point where I think I'm just beginning to know the difference between "good" and "great", and I found that difference at Sushi Dragon.
I rarely order omakase, which means "I'll leave it to you" (from Japanese "to entrust"). I'm not yet successful enough to afford a big ticket meal every time I go out for sushi, but there are those times where it is fun to celebrate and treat yourself to something unique. Last night I let Tommy decide what kind of meal I was going to have. For me that's the highest level of trust I can give, in this context. This will probably be the only nice meal I can afford to eat this month.
He did not disappoint.
The meal started with a course of sashimi, cut into small squares and artfully arranged on beds of vegetables...small, precise slices of cucumber and radishes, as well as something that looked like angel hair pasta, tasted like bean sprouts, and is likely something else entirely (remember...I'm not an expert). The fish was very, very fresh, and I could tell because of the firmness. Fortunately, I enjoy it that way. Tommy explained that not all customers like to eat the freshest fish because of how firm it is. Apparently, the texture can be off-putting. Can't understand that, because it's delicious. There were three kinds of fish: tuna, mackerel, and I believe halibut.
The second course was a surprise...oysters! Two oyster halves on ice in a huge, flat-bottomed bowl, with a carved lemon garnish. Did not expect that. Now, I haven't eaten oysters (much less raw oysters) in years. Not necessarily my favorite food. But I ordered omakase, and that means I turn nothing down. Good thing, too. They were fantastic. I have trouble describing the flavor and texture. Sharp, almost like horseradish, but not spicy or hot. Rich, smooth, and with a soft texture one might expect from an oyster, but not slimy. An unexpected treat.
Next came another order of sashimi, this time sliced very, very thin (to the point that I have trouble recalling the fish involved), but broader pieces instead of little squares. Regardless, it was fantastic. Tommy brought this and the final course out himself, with an appropriately shallow tray of sauce.
The final course was sushi...generous pieces of fish on small beds of well-prepared rice. Salmon, Spanish mackerel, giant clam, local sweet shrimp from Catalina (delicious!), tuna, sea bass, and salmon belly, which I saved for last. Please understand that it's entirely possible I am misidentifying some of this fish, as Tommy is known for throwing unconventional varieties into the mix, and I'm just not that good at differentiating yet. Needless to say, I didn't particularly care at this point...the sushi was so fresh, so tasty, and so complex that you could've thrown the sake bottle at me without breaking my concentration.
At that point, Tommy came out to check on me. I complimented him on the finest sushi I'd had to date, which prompted a gracious thank-you (in Japanese...with a proper bow, no less). One of the nicest people I've encountered in Los Angeles, and certainly the nicest, most personable sushi chef I've ever had the pleasure of meeting. A consummate and relaxed professional.
He then asked if I would like an additional course of Ikura (Roe...basically caviar). He explained that many Americans who aren't accustomed to the firmness of fresh fish like to have something soft as their final course. I responded that I was too full (the honest truth) to risk it, but again complimented him on the freshness and preparation of the fish. He said he chooses it himself from the market each morning, looking for that right selection for the day's menu.
Again, I'm not a sushi expert. I'm just a guy who loves this particular slice of Japanese cuisine. But I can tell you this with certainty...Sushi Dragon is my favorite spot in town. The intimate, understated setting, the easy-to-miss, tucked-away location, the incredibly friendly and generous hosts, and of course the amazing sushi all contribute to what I hope has been a glowing review. I have eaten here many times, never suffered a bad experience, and have frequently had incredible ones.
Words are, at times, insufficient.
(Also, if you have enough room for something a bit rich, yet delicious, try the tempura cheesecake for dessert...you won't regret it.) read more