The first time I tried hor mok was at a Bangkok night market in 2010, in the late evening, after a…read morevery long flight. We were scrounging for whatever dinner we could find at that hour, from street vendors who were heroically operating despite a recent street bomb in the area. Using our terrible, travel guide Thai, we somehow ended up with some of the most impossibly delicious (and spicy) Thai food we'd ever had in our lives, everything expertly tied into small plastic bags and taken back to our hotel room for often tearful consumption -- tearful because the food was so spicy it made us cry!
My first hor mok, a savory, curry custard made from coconut milk, red curry paste, eggs, and fish, recalled flan or mousse or chawanmushi -- a very spicy chawanmushi. It was as creamy and rich as any dessert. I was in love at first bite. Deeply in love. We spent our next few weeks in Thailand eating it wherever we could find it: mostly from street vendors, but also from significantly more expensive restaurants catering to the local well-to-do.
For the next decade or so, I pursued hor mok back in NYC. I found it -- beautifully made -- at Zabb Elee. When that legendary Isaan restaurant closed, I was bereft. Naturally, when I saw hor mok on the menu at Jan Jao Kha, I knew we had to go.
Jan Jao Kha is a looker. It's a tiny, narrow, railroad-style restaurant like so many in Hell's Kitchen. To get to the bathroom at the back, you pass by the kitchen, where dishes are placed on the counter for wait staff to pick up as they are prepared. (There were a lot of chefs in that small space, looking quite hot, poor things.) But the dining room is beautifully decorated with fresh flowers everywhere, the ceilings hung with garlands (probably artificial), and murals on the walls.
Unlike some beauties, though, Jan Jao Kha also has substance. The food is well made as well as beautifully plated.
We started with the beautifully presented Pomelo Salad ($19.00; Royal Thai pomelo salad. Premium pomelo, shallots, mints, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, with chili lime dressing). Like so many great Thai dishes, this was a balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and spicy heat. There was a bit of fish sauce in the dressing, which the adults in the group enjoy -- but it was dialed down enough that the Progeny enjoyed it, as well.
As for the long-anticipated HOR MOK PU GOONG ($32.00; Lump crab meat and shrimps custard wrapped with banana leaf), Jan Jao Kha's version was very upmarket and included a huge amount of crab meat, as well as a few large, juicy shrimp served on top. It was less silky than the versions I so loved in Thailand and at Zabb Elee, and quite a bit less spicy. The flavors were there, however: a subtle fragrance of lemongrass, basil, lime leaf, and banana leaf. There was a nice layer of spinach and cabbage underneath the custard. And did I mention there was a LOT of crab?
A main of BASIL FRIED RICE WITH GRILLED BEEF ($34.00; Grilled NY steak, sweet peppers, onions, and basil leaves, mixed with rice topped with fried egg) was also nicely executed. The rice was pleasantly smoky (whether from real wok hai or a bottled / powdered agent, I couldn't tell) and the very lightly seasoned steak admirably tender. I'm guessing this dish is on the menu for the less adventurous, spice averse clientele.
The 11-year old is very fond of Massaman Beef ($30.00; Stew beef, potatoes, cashew nuts, and fried onion, in massaman curry sauce), and really enjoyed the version at Jan Jao Kha. Beef was very tender, but had been cut into overly large pieces that were difficult to eat without a knife. (Knives are NOT on the dining table at all, per Thai custom, only a fork and a spoon.)
The one-year-old restaurant does not (yet?) have a liquor license, so we went with a kid-friendly blueberry rooibos tea.
A few things to note:
Steamed Jasmine rice is served from a large bowl that a wait person brings around -- as much or as little as you wish to have of it. I like that diners can customize to their own appetites and less goes to waste.
Service was a mixed bag. There were two women who attended our table. One was older and very nice. The younger woman was strangely devoid of warmth unlike most Thai (and Thai Americans) we've interacted with. She was a touch pushy about upselling, looking almost angry when we declined her suggestion to order more. She again looked miffed when, at the end of the meal, she pushed us to write a Google review for the restaurant, and I told her I would write a Yelp review, instead.