tl;dr although it's working through a few growing pains, this chic new Rittenhouse eatery proves to be more than a sum of its eclectic parts
After a multiyear rennovation of the carriage house and rowhome previously occupied by the Philadelphia Academy of Social Dance, Wilder is finally open. The name refers to the quirky amalgam of its parts, channeled both in its menu and decor. The concept sits somewhere between upscale pizzeria and seasonal farm-to-table, with a vaguely Italian-influenced array of raw seafood, pizza, pasta, and plates.
The enourmous bi-level eater is intentionally eccentric. The downstairs eatery is warmly lit by ornate chandeliers, and the mezzaine-level bar is lined with leopard-print stools. Upstairs, house plants dangle from the large skylight that extends the depth of the room. The walls are decked with Persian rugs on one side, and a wavy light fixture on the other. Rich fabrics hang from the middle of the room, down to the turquoise velvet-uphostered booths. Early 2000s pop-rock intermixes with the mingling of diners.
My partner and I decided on a whim to swing by for Friday dinner. The early dinner service hummed with patrons, but we had no trouble securing a last-minute table. Throughout our meal, the upscale service was diligent, but felt slightly rushed.
For appetizers, we shared the Pull Apart Rolls, the Roasted Chesapeake Oysters, and the Mortadella & Long Hot Pizza. The milk bun-esque rolls, with a crisp, buttery croissant-like exterior, were insanely airy, proving to be an ideal light palette whetter for 2. The semi-sweet flavor was complemented exquisitely by ample salt shavings and rich, garlicy (and peculiarly green) butter. Next, four 4 oysters were served piping hot on a bed of salt crystals and dried kelp. The crisp breading did not overwhelm the delicate flavor of oyster, and the slight lingering heat of fermented chili was complimented by the bite of meyer lemon. Lastly, the personal-sized pizza sported a leopard-spotted crust to match the funky throw pillows. Cheese and chopped pistachio were hidden by evenly lined slices of mortadella and an acidic arugala salad, culminating into an upscale hoagie-esque flavor. While the middle of the pie was well-decked with toppings, the cheese stretched unevenly to the bland, doughy edges -- which ended up being an worthy conduit for our remaining garlic butter.
After a reasonable pause, a plate-and-silverware change, and table wipedown, we moved into our mains: the Mafaldine Alla Vodka and the Spanish Octopus. The al dente, wavy-edged noodles held onto the sweet, tangy sauce. The pasta was topped generously with jumbo lump crab and accented by crispy breadcrumbs. The resultant dish was simultaneously summery and comforting, easily my favorite crab pasta in recent memory. On the other hand, our octopus was impressively presented, with 2 whole tentacles stretching the length of the ribbed dish. Lemon provided an acidic kick to the smoky eggplant puree, and pine nuts created an interesting textural contrast. Ironically, the octopus itself was the least enjoyable component of the dish, erring on burnt rather than charred.
All said and done, our bill sat at $124 (after tax and tip), and satisfyingly filled 2 moderately-to-very hungry appetites. While priced at a premium akin to countless other Rittenhouse sit-down-eries, Wilder stands out by backing up its impressive superficial looks with tasty (if not somewhat inconsistently executed) dishes. And, perhaps most importantly, I'm game for a return visit. read more