Chef Jason Dady, the mind behind Roca & Martillo, is no stranger to San Antonio diners. A veteran restaurateur, Dady has built a reputation in town with ventures like Tre Trattoria, Two Bros. BBQ, Range, and Jardín, showcasing his knack for blending bold flavors with approachable dining concepts. His career is marked by a versatility that spans Italian, barbecue, and Mediterranean influences, grounded in a commitment to quality and innovation.
Yet, with Roca & Martillo, that versatility feels like a double-edged sword. The restaurant lacks a clear identity. Is it aiming for fine dining with $60 steaks, or does the huge, sprawling outdoor play area suggest a kid-centric experience? This lack of focus manifests in the uneven menu -- brilliant in parts, lackluster in others -- and a dining room that struggles to define its atmosphere. Without a cohesive vision, Roca & Martillo feels like a collection of ideas rather than a unified restaurant. The experience is hampered further by a young waitstaff that vacillates between pretentious aloofness and casual banter.
The Parmesan fried chicken is arguably the most compelling reason to visit. This dish reimagines a classic with finesse, delivering a perfectly crisp, golden exterior encrusted with a generous layer of nutty, savory Parmesan and an equally rich, decadent Parmesan cream gravy. The white and dark pieces remains succulent and juicy, striking a balance between the rich, salty cheese and the tender meat. Each bite crackles with texture and bursts with flavor. It's a standout dish that exemplifies how simplicity, when executed with precision, can become extraordinary.
Equally impressive is the smoked brisket lasagna, a bold fusion that marries the smoky depth of slow-cooked barbecue brisket with the comforting layers of a traditional lasagna. The brisket, tender and infused with a robust smokiness, weaves seamlessly into the pasta sheets and fresh mozzarella, complemented by a robust, vibrant San Marzano tomato sauce that cuts through the richness. The result is a harmonious dish: rich yet balanced, hearty yet refined.
For dessert, the Nutella torte is a decadent finale that hits all the right notes. The unmistakable hazelnut-chocolate richness of Nutella is front and center, tempered by a silky texture and just enough sweetness to avoid cloying excess. The accompanying peanut butter mousse and candied peanuts add salt and crunch, respectively, contrasting nicely with the sweet elements. This dessert satisfies without pretense, offering a comforting yet creative conclusion to the meal. It's indulgent in the best possible way.
Unfortunately, not all dishes reach the same heights. The crispy octopus promises much but delivers little. While the concept of a crispy preparation is enticing, the execution falls flat. The octopus is tough, rubbery, and chewy, lacking the tender suppleness that a well-prepared cephalopod demands. Worse, the flavor is muted; neither the minimal seasoning nor the accompanying arugula and citrus elevate the dish beyond a bland, rubbery disappointment. For a seafood offering, it feels like an afterthought.
The duck confit pasta also misses the mark, a surprising stumble given the potential of its components. Duck confit, when done well, should offer melt-in-your-mouth richness, but here the meat is dry and stringy, sapped of the unctuousness that defines the preparation. The pasta, meanwhile, lacks a cohesive sauce or seasoning to tie it together, resulting in a dish that feels disjointed and flavorless. It's a frustrating misstep that undermines the promise of indulgence.
Beyond the food, the service at Roca & Martillo detracts significantly from the overall experience. The staff, while superficially polite, often appear disengaged and inattentive. Requests for water refills or additional utensils go unheeded for long stretches, and there's a palpable lack of warmth or enthusiasm in their interactions. I recoiled on one visit when my server yelled, "How you doing over there?!" from behind the bar. The pacing between courses feels haphazard, with some dishes arriving too quickly. At Roca & Martillo's price point, diners should be given an opportunity to finish a course prior to receiving the next.
For those considering a visit, the recommendation is mixed: stick to the highlights and temper expectations elsewhere. Roca & Martillo has the potential to be a standout, but Dady must address its weaknesses and settle on a defining concept. A two-star review seems overly harsh, but a three-star review seems too generous. I will split the difference and award Roca & Martillo 2.5 stars. read more