I loved Torrisi Italian Specialties when it was open a decade ago, so when I heard a bigger, bolder Torrisi was one of the hottest new restaurants of the year, I got on Resy the day reservations opened up, a full month in advance. I got the hour wrong, unfortunately, and I guess this is one of those restaurants where you have to be on your game. I booked the only time available for our Tuesday night dinner: 11PM, when most people like us (parents of small children) are sound asleep.
I had alerts on for more reasonable time slots the entire month leading up to our reservation. Nothing ever became available. Thankfully, this was our first dinner in New York, so we were still on L.A. time. Still, we showed up 15 minutes early figuring a table might have opened up by 10:45. As it turns out, though, Torrisi is a full-blown party late on a school night, with a fun, vibrant atmosphere. The place was packed when we walked in--a lot of large groups, we noticed, rather than couples--and we were led to a bar area by the open kitchen, where we were able to order drinks while we waited for our table.
With a bit of guidance, we got a bottle of Barbera d'Alba, which was nice and not excessively pricey. We weren't actually seated until after 11, but our roomy corner table was worth the wait. The service was exceptional, especially for such a busy restaurant. I wish I'd gotten our waiter's name. He was super impressive, probably the best server I've seen in years. He was in constant motion, attending to many people, I'm sure, but always there whenever we might have thought to look for him, anticipating our needs and taking the extra ten seconds whenever we seemed interested to tell us what was in a dish, or when our entrée was on its way.
The food was absolutely delicious, starting with the complimentary bread basket--fresh, soft, sesame seed-studded slices served with good, creamy butter. I loved the concept, the Italian-ish, sometimes Asian-inflected, 100% New York City menu. We ordered a couple appetizers, a couple pastas, an entrée, and a dessert, and this was a sturdy, beautiful dinner for two.
We started with the cucumbers New Yorkese and the Italian and American hams with zeppole. We ordered the cucumbers at our waiter's recommendation, and this might have been my favorite dish of the night. The cucumbers were sliced thin in a glorious salad, liberally dressed with deli pickle flavors: dill, cilantro, mustard seeds, heavy on the fresh herbs. I know cucumber may not sound as exciting ham and pasta and duck, but do not miss out on this salad. The hams were splendid, sliced thin and silky, served with crispy fried dough balls and a sweet pineapple mostarda (I'm always happy to see ham and pineapple together).
The tortellini pomodoro were simple and deeply satisfying, supple pasta stuffed with ricotta and served on a bright, jammy tomato sauce. I also loved the raviolini with prawns and saffron, slippery shrimp dumplings in a light, very flavorful sauce. They reminded me more of wontons than any pasta I've ever had, bursting with succulent prawn. The duck alla mulberry was wonderful, the duck perfectly cooked, with crispy skin and tender red flesh. It came with a rich mulberry sauce and sautéed Swiss chard.
We ordered one dessert to share, but got a whole sequence to end our meal, starting with palate-cleansing green apple and lemon Italian ice, charmingly served in tiny paper cups. Then we had our affogato, an astonishingly good ice cream sundae, with layers of espresso granita, vanilla ice cream, mascarpone mousse, and hot fudge. Finally, a cute little plate of cookies: lemon meringue, tricolor almond, and Milano-style wafers coated in chocolate.
It was close to one in the morning when we rolled out the door, the restaurant emptying out at last. Torrisi was well worth the planning and the ridiculously late start. Food, service, and ambiance were all on a different level from almost any other restaurant. I live across the country, but I fully intend to go back--even if it means eating duck after midnight. read more