When I hear about a new place that purports to be Shanghainese, I've got to check it out as soon as the opportunity arises. When my SIL wanted to meet me for lunch and asked me for suggestions, it gave me an early opportunity to check out the newly opened Shanghai House (Jia JIa Fu) restaurant on Balboa with a couple of representatives from my Shanghai contingent in tow.
There was no doubt about Shanghai House's truly Shanghainese identity, with the server, the other parties there at early lunchtime, and two-thirds of my own party speaking Shanghainese (and me with my usual Yangjingbang). The menu, too, was rock-ribbed Shanghainese cuisine in its offerings, even if some of the "rice" dishes turned out to be somewhat eccentric home-style renditions. Unfortunately, some of the Shanghai "dim sum" items are only offered on weekends (which isn't made clear in the menu).
We ordered xiaolong bao; one cold dish (salted duck); a couple of "rice" dishes, Shanghai classic "meicai kourou" (steamed pork belly with pickled vegetables) and a tofu and seafood clay pot; and one soup, also a Shanghai classic, fried tofu with bean thread noodles.
I was able to approach the xiaolong bao with freshly calibrated taste receptors, having returned from Shanghai just two days before, and am happy to report that they were very good. Only an artlessness in the wrapping (they looked slightly misshapen) and a slight lack of flavor depth in the broth kept them from being the equal of Shanghai Dumpling King's and Oakland's Shanghai Xiao Chi's versions, but at $4.95 for 10 I'm willing to cut them a little slack. I made do with worse at several venues in Shanghai. They also made me vow to return on the weekend to try some of the other Shanghainese brunch items.
The other dishes were a mixed bag. The salty duck was tasty and lean, but had the appearance of being either too old or suffering from refrigerator burn, showing some discoloration and dryness. The pork belly/mei cai was marred by a too-sweet red sauce, but otherwise good. The tofu and seafood hot pot had fried tofu instead of the expected fresh tofu, and also suffered from a confusion of too many ingredients in it. It was almost as if all the ingredients one might toss into seafood hot-pot in the course of a leisurely hot pot dinner were crammed into a modest clay pot. This is not to say that there was anything leftover-ish about the contents; most of the ingredients appeared to be fresh and cooked just the right amount. If you are a seafood nut, this is the Chinese Cioppino for you.
The xifen/you doufu soup was the most peculiar of all. It came with an opaque brown broth, though neither I nor the two Shanghainese have ever seen this soup before with anything but a clear broth. It was savory enough, but a bit jarring visually.
I went return ed the following Saturday for lunch, intending to try some of the Shanghainese brunchie stuff only available on weekends. Nonetheless, I couldn't resist another shot at the xiaolong bao. To accompany it I ordered a couple more of my favorites, savory soy milk (available only on weekends) and green onion pancakes (available daily).
If anything, the xiaolong bao tasted even better than on my initial visit, probably because I brought more of a hunger with me, and were prettier, wrapped more carefully.
The savory soy milk (yan doujiang) turne about to be as good as I've had in SF since the early days of Fountain Court, better than Shanghai Dumpling King's version (good in its own right). It was properly sassy, and properly constructed, down to the inclusion of brine shrimp, which are often omitted. (Do they think those teeny little eyes are going to scare anybody?)
The green onion pancakes (cong you bing) made it three for three. I alsway cross my fingers when ordering this, because there are so many approaches to making it and with many different results, but Shanghai House's version was much to my liking: thick, well-browned and crunchy on the outside and soft and well-seeded with spring onion tops inside.
I talked to the server, who happened to be the daughter of the proprietor. Although she spoke English like an ABC, she had no problem understanding my little Shanghainese. She confirmed that it was a family operation, and said that it was dad who did all the cooking. The other server may have been the mom.
I'll reserve judgement on the regular lunch and dinner fare; our limited sampling of cold apps and rice dishes on our first visit found them to be a hit and miss proposition. But thanks to today's "hat trick" (sorry for that, but the Hockey Haven bar is only three doors up the street from SH) I have a new go-to place for Shanghainese eye-openers.
[Update 11/10/07] - I downgraded my rating from 5 stars to a still-generous 4 because I finally got there for dinner. I had my "Gang of Four" (Shanghainese inlaws in tow) and we found the main dishes to be eccentric and overly sweet, even for Shanghainese cuisine. read more